I use these intake gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7220 and the engine I had rebuilt from a shop about 4 and a half years ago and has been my daily driver ever since. Whenever it would break of course I would just fix it right back up now that this has happened I just pulled it out and decided to do some bottom end work to it
If you replace the rod bolts...You really should have the rods big end (Crank end) re-sized in order to retain proper clamping force. They should be re-sized with the new bolts in place. Yes...Get the block checked for a cracked cyl bore...
No but you should mic the journals to be certain the bearings you get will do the job. You said eng was rebuilt 4 yrs ago??? Was the crank turned at that point. Pull a bearing cap on the mains and a connecting rod. Pull the bearing insert off the cap and look at the back side of it. It will be stamped 010 or 020 this will give you the size the crank journals hav been turned down too. If so...check all of the bearings...Sometimes they will not all be 10 or 20 under they could be both on the mains and rod journals. 20 under on the crank is 20 over on the bearings by the way.
To be honest I dont really know. I just told him I want a rebuilt hi performance 302 and I paid 750 (no core) for it but ill check it out tomorrow when I get some time to look at it. thanks a bunch for the info its really helping me alot as ive never done bottom end work before
"I just told him I want a rebuilt hi performance 302 and I paid 750." even at 4 year ago prices, that seems like not enough for what you asked for.
Was that 750 for the short block or the whole motor? 750 for a decently built shortblock seems about right but a mediocre set of heads like my gt40's are gonna be 400-500 by themselves. I paid 300 for them used and another 200 in machine shop costs etc etc etc. Not trying to imply you got a turd of a motor but 750 for a complete motor isn't getting you much.
It was just for the shortblock. Ive put a beating on this motor ALOT and the block seems to be the only thing that has not broke on me yet. me and my buddy raced and he has a 12.9 2009 4.6 3 valve stang and I can beat him by half a car length
Well your maverick weighs a heck of a lot less then his mustang. Whats the info on the rest of your car? Stripped down at all? Trans? Gears? Heads? Power adders?
It Stilll has full interior inside of it. traded the bench seat for some gsr integra seats. It has a T-5 inside of it with 4.11's in the back (thinking of going with 3.73's soon) edelbrock performer rpm heads 1.95 valves. the cam and intake was a torker-2 with a 750 holley double pumper on it. but one of the cams dulled out so now its just some summit cam in it till next year and it has a stealth intake and a 670 street avenger now. No powers adders yet either
Thanks. If I knew more about cars than I did 4 years back I would have just got a 351w in it instead and everythng else better ha
So I took off the bearings and they all look like they have wear on them pretty badly and the have a part number stamped "m529l" on all of them except for the middle one with "f529l" they sizing on them says 010 and they are some brand named king bearings? idk Ive never heard of those before. But anyways does anyone know a good brand to get that size?
If your bearings look bad u need to check your crank before installing new bearings. I personally use clevite bearings and never had a problem.
