I was looking online at some of these higher end engine places. Seems like there are a good number of cars out there that make over 1000hp to the wheels and are advertised as daily drivers. But I wonder how long such engines really last. But it's good to see that. one company was nelson racing engines. Amazingly expensive but really interesting.
launched around 4500. qa1 shocks and coil overs. spun 20 feet or so sometimes. had a wide open throttle switch for the spray. the car could go faster. but it was a street car. tagged and insured no roll cage either. we dodged inpection on test and tune days. i posted nelson racing in an earlier post in this thread
here is the reply I got back from the Dart people: Mo, Our SBF SHP block is will support 700 – 750 HP depending on assembly and tune. SBF Iron Eagle Sportsman blocks will support 1000 – 1200 HP depending on assembly and tune. SBF Iron Eagle Race block will support 1400 – 1500 HP depending on assembly and tune. Our 351W based blocks will accept a 4.250” stroke with a steel rod and max bore of 4.185” allowing you the ability to build a 468 CID motor. Hope this helps. Thank you, Tony Hornak Dart Machinery, LTD. 353 Oliver Drive Troy, MI 48084 Phone: 1-248-362-1188 ext. 139 Fax: 1-248-362-2027 thornak@dartheads.com
hey mo while you looking at this big buck stuff. look into a alum. block. might as well ditch some weight while your spending money.
It all comes down to HP/Wt ratio and how well you can plant the HP to the ground. I would love to put a 1000hp motor in the Maverick and see what it would do..............certainly another 300/400hp would probably destroy the car...........................but what a ride! Coming back down to earth, if I were to spend $15k+ just on the motor and another $5k to get the car ready for that kind of HP.............I would probably buy something like this 27T that should do 6 sec's in the 1/8 and 9 flat in the 1/4 and still have enough money left over to buy an enclosed trailer. Building a street/strip car w/1000hp takes "stupid" money. IMHO
then I must be the village idiot . . . I have kept a running tab on a spreadsheet ever since I got this maverick and I am into this car $27,000. And very happy with the results so far
Nothing against you spending $27k on the Maverick, I spent $24k on a 31 Model A with a blown flathead that only made 305HP @ the crank. My comment was about building a 1000hp motor for the street.
Ok folks, we need to define daily driver here. Is this going to be the only car you own and the only way for you to get to work? If so, then I would agree it is a daily driver and keep it in the 300hp territory. But if it's weekends to the store, or to the local car show or drag strip. Drive it out, race and drive it home type of stuff? If that is your definition of daily driver then all bets are off. The plan for my car revolves around 1000 rwhp. I'm doing it with an aftermarket block, and two power adders (nitrous and a turbo). Will I hesitate to take it to the grocery store on occasion? Not at all and its not a concern. Does it have to get me to work every day? Absolutely not, the insurance won't allow it (collectors) and it will be running E85 for fuel (not at a lot of stations around here). I was coerced into building this for the power tour, but truth be told...I'd be the slowest of the lot with this car. So it's just something fun to see what I'm capable of. Mo, if you want to dream or make plans for a 1000hp motor, plan ahead. Get the block that can handle it first. Build it conservative (using the 331 stuff you currently have maybe?) and then if later it makes sense to build the 1000hp monster then you have the basic building block to do it. If you enjoy racing and high powered cars, get rid of the stock block now. Like has been said before, it's not a matter of if it will eventually split...at some point you will make it fast enough that it will split the block. If nothing else you are paying for piece of mind. It's good to know that you don't have to worry about the block splitting and dumping oil under your tires at speed.
I think the notion that a 1000rwhp car is unsafe on the streets is probably true if at 2500rpm I'm getting that kind of power. but from what I see (this is just what I've researched so far), most of these engines are putting out 500-600rwhp NA, then they have turbos or centrifugal SC that come on usually at higher rpm's for another 200hp and then they have 200+ nitrous shot to get them to the 1000hp range . . . I don't see this kind of engine being as monstrous as it's perceived . . . looking at the dyno numbers, when I'm in the 2000-3500rpm range, power is really not much more than 300-400. There are bmw's parked on my street that would blow those numbers away at those rpm's. I have no intention of walking into a speedshop, leaving my car there for 6months and dropping 50K to dive out with a 1000rwhp car. It would be more of an amazing project that I would build with bryant's help over time.
mashori, The only reason a 1000 hp engine is not safe on the street is that at 25 mph it will not run... well. Lets say that you get a 500 hp engine built (or build it yourself). You are likely going to idle at somewhere near 1500 - 2000 rpm because the engine won't idle lower than that. How fast will your car be travelling at 1500 rpm? A 500 hp 351C that was proffesionally built in the early 70s idled at 1400 rpm and was designated as a "race only vehicle" because the engine was so hard to handle at low rpm. Since then cam design has improved some and there are better heads available from the after market but you can't get that kind of power - with a N/A engine without turning a lot of rpm. engines that run well at high rpm do not run well at low rpm. Some guys are willing to put up with a lot of ill manored engine because they like the "sound" of the engine - I did when I was younger..... for a few months. That was with a manual transmission so I could just push on the pedal to coast at 25 mph. With an automatic you will need a very high stall speed or you will be fighting the transmission with the brake constantly. If you are aware of all this then I appologize for wasting your time. If not, then consider it before you decide to "drive to the grocery store" with your race car. I might have my classic parked in the stall just beyond the end of yours - I don't care to have the body modified by crunch. I do wish you the best on your project and in whatever use you can tollerate.
our mustang. 725 at the wheels on motor. 1200 or so with belt on. you would never know it had that much power just cruising in it or if you saw it on the street . it had a quick idle and was very streetable. fuel injection is an amazing thing on high power for the street. it takes money yes and the knowledge of what works but is very much possible
