Not that it makes a difference at this point for rotor 22, but I decided to slam the doors shut when it was still setting up so things might move into place where they should be. But, then I took that chance that things could get pushed where they shouldn't be. One door fits perfect after closing and the other is not so good, so maybe I hit 50%. It's all a gamble.
Bigger problem might be that you got a pretty good headstart on him when it comes to cumulative hearing damage. So, we all know who's gonna win that match. Being a car guy for lots of years sure takes its toll on the old eardrums. I sure hope I can find all this useful info when the time comes to do my weatherstrips too. Doubtful I'll have time to do all this kind of stuff AND actually get it running in the same year too. So, it'll have to just look like hell so long as it runs like crazy. lol
I am fed up with this door seal. Got it glued in properly and now the bottom half of my door is misaligned with the quarter panel, as if the seal is holding it off
Same story for me. My doors were perfect until I installed the weather stripping. Driver is still nice but the bottom of the passenger is pushed out and I have to slam the hell out of it. I might rip it out and replace it. Micah
Yup. Same issue on the passenger side. I tore the seal out and door shuts like it used to. Now comes the laborious task of stripping the old adhesive off the door. I'm sorry I ever started.
If you do, beware of the adhesive. Damn near impossible to get it off. I pulled a piece of it off and it took the paint with it.
Maybe this would help: http://m.autozone.com/paint-and-body/paint-and-decal-remover/3m-adhesive-remover/189453_0_0/ Micah
lol.. Micah's always one step ahead. You could also try the "goof off" stuff to help soften and break the bond too.
I'm concerned it will also lift my new paint. I've had the best luck with abrading most of it off with a brass wire brush. Was chatting with Craig today and he brought up an interesting point. My door is slightly low right now and that might be reducing the clearance between the bottom of the door and rocker panel. I'm going to raise it a bit tomorrow and see if there is any joy to be had. There is a guy on evilbay selling some NOS door seals for $250 plus shipping I'm not there yet. Its cheaper to restore a Packard than to buy Maverick parts there these days.
If your paint is fully cured then you won't have any issues with either product. We used the 3M stuff at the body shop once when.. ahem.. "a guy" put some badging on crooked and they had to be replaced. I was even more stressed out to be doing that on fresh paint but didn't damage the clear-coats gloss even in the least. The goof off stuff I rec'd above is also solvent free and basically just softens and helps reduce the mechanical work needed to get it all off. Sorry to hear about the difficulties and good luck with getting back to square one without any more issues. PS. I just thought about 3M having several different adhesive removers years ago and IIRC some were actually solvent based. Doubtful that they make them with the same formula anymore with the tighter VOC laws these days but make sure you get the one Micah posted above that's safe for urethane's and plastics. Too lazy to look right now but you could also check 3M's site directly just to be sure you get the right formula if you do decide to use it.
I still would like a set of NOS seals. I should be receiving a set along with my winning Mega Millions ticket.
