Dyno Sheet..its a heartbreaker

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Bossmav, you ever get that data? I'm getting anxious!

 

Sorry everyone I have a bad case of CRS

I had started doing this last night and then got side tracked by my kids home work. After that, I got CRS (can't remember shit) and forgot what it was I was doing, by the time I remembered what it was one of the other kid had restarted the computer and all that info was lost. So here we go again.

1974 302 block
Intake, Victor Jr.
Carb, 750 holley DP (this was a tad small)
World Roush 200 heads with a stage 3 port and polish done by Maxflow MotorSports (had to get a plug in for my race team)
Comp Solid roller lifters
Comp Cams # 31-761-8 Dur 264/264 lift 613/613 on 110 lobe sep.
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers 1.6 and 7/16 studs size
Scat 347 stroker crank internally balanced
Eagle 347 H-beam Stroker rods
Venolia 11.3 to1 and this is more of a flat top style of piston
MSD dist.
Romac balancer

If you have any other questions I can get the answers.
I'm having a little bit of trouble getting the dyno sheets small enough to post but I'm working on it. Let keep that part a secret because I don't want anyone questioning my computer engineering degree.

Terry Gates
AKA Bossmav

 

I have to go back to school, it only took me an hour to remember how to do this.
Here is the dyno info.
Terry

 

dyno

Jesus what cam is in that thing and what heads, it climbed all the way to 7100 that is stout.

 

Hey N20 it a comp cam and the model number is on the other post along with the heads.

Take care.
Terry

 

Dyno

Wow I am a ton more confident in that my new combo will do, I just upgraded to a custom comp solid flat tappet with very similar #s to that 347 my cam is ground on a 112 for better capture of the Nos Potential, but its 600-608 252-264 @.o50 with 11 to 1 and the new pro topline 200 cc heads which flow 275 @ 600 I run a 175 shot and have had trouble with et but not with mph, although only having run a 11.20 It ran on the same run 127.8mph, I found I was balooning my converter and have since upgraded to the cam I spoke aobut above and a ATI 8" 4200 converter, my old converter was a 10" with a bout 3000 stall, I only run a foot brake so my best 60 ft with the old combo was 1.96 car has low 10 potential without the new cam, I have my rotating assembly for sale as I want to use my block which is fresh and + .040 already, I spoke to CHP today and Dynoflow about my new stroker kit and I am still debating on the 331 or the 347, THey both have rod to stroke issues and crack blocks but I believe the 331 is more user friendly as the wrist pin does not intersect the oil rings on the pistons. I will let you guys know what I decide, but I plan on running my new existing combo before I tear it down for the "stroke job"
My old cam was only 499 lift and 248-252 @050 with a 110 lc so everything should really come together nicely, Its running now but a engine vibration has made me believe that the new 28 ounce sfi flex plated my have actually been a 50 ounce imbalance.
Dave

 

Sounds like your on your way to the 10's! Sweet!!
Good luck with your motor, and I like your combo.
Your MPH is great for a low 11 second et, what is your 60 foot times? It sounds like your motor has a strong top end and you are building most of your speed after the 1/8 mile. Now all you need is the first 1/8 to be as strong and you'll have a beast on your hands.


Bossmav

 

I saw that Vic. Jr intake coming a mile away . Bossmav, so he just brought the motor into the shop and dynoed it eh, cuz I just don't think that power could possibly be RWHP. Was 7100 RPM the redline of the engine? How did he determine what the redline was? What kind of main bearings did he use? Oh, one other thing, how did it run, could you idle it at less than 1000 RPM without it jumping off the dyno? Thanks.

 

The motor had no problem idling at 1000 or 800. If you look at the cam specs you will see that the lobe sep. is 110 which helped calm down the cam and made the idle much smoother then a 106 or 108 lobe sep.
Comp cams web site as a 800 number and you can talk to a tech about the cam, this cam is a off the shelf cam and that's a good thing for info.

The 7100 is when we quit because you can see that the engine wasn't making more power so that all there was. (this little beast was running lean even after fatting the carb up as much as possible, needed a 800 or 850 and that's no joke!)

I'll check on the main bearings for you I think I've got that info.

We only have a motor dyno so you are right about it not being a RWHP but on the rule of thumb you lose about 30 to 60 HP from the engine to the tires.

The engine was running VP 107 fuel when on the dyno.

Headers are 1 7/8 this is open for flow.

The only way to make that kind of top end power is with the Victor Jr. Other intakes work fine for bottem end power but if you want your small block to run on the top end as strong as it can then you will need the Victor Jr.
I've used my Victor Jr on the street and have never had a problem with it but this was not a daily driver.

Hope I've helped, if anyone has any questions please let me know.

Terry Gates
AKA Bossmav

 

I'm making changes to my 408 this off season and you can bet I'm coping some of the items from that little 347.

If you want to make the best improvements to your motor either do it yourself or have a pro do it but get your heads ported and polished.
Spend the money and get the stage 3 it's worth every penny.

Another saying we have on the team I race with is this.
"If it won't flow, you won't go"
And that's a fact!

As always just my .02 but I'm right about this one.

Bossmav

 

Bossmav, so what would you change on this motor to make it run on premium 91 octane gas with one bottle of octane booster per fillup? Would you just drop the compression down to 10:1 or so? I'd be willing to drop it down to 450 hp if I could get it more streetable and able to run on premium pump gas with one bottle of octane booster. Basically, I'm looking for a bad ass 347 stroker that I can refuel at any gas station, is reliable, idles somewhat decently, and pumps out 450 hp at the flywheel.

 

I have 10.5 to 1 pistons in my 408 with Jictor Jr heads and have never had a problem with 91 octane, I've never had to use any booster and my timing was all in at 2,200.

When I race the car I use VP 107 and I'll pick up a 1/2 tenth.
If you drop the compression down just a little and stay with aluminum heads you won't have a problem, cast iron heads you will need to be 9.5 to 1 or lower. If you are going to use N20
then a 9.0 would be a good ratio.


I'll be honest, and say just by lowering the compression down just a little won't change the horsepower that much.
I don't think that the Roush heads are as poweriful as say the AFR or the trickflow but with a professional 3 stage port work almost any heads will flow the numbers you want.

In reality all small block Ford heads SUCK they don't flow on the exhaust side like Chevy's do (please Lord forgive me) and they need some help on the intake, once you have your heads flowing then you can motor can breath and run like it should.

To end this long post, I think it would be very streetable (is that a word) and a kickass little motor, the only thing that you would need to keep a eye on is the lash on your solid lifters they may need adjusting from time to time.

As alway just my 02

Bossmav

 

Loxman,
Back to your original post, here is what i would try:
First of all i think you could use a different carburetor. You might want to consider at least a 650 DP. The second thing i would do is take some timing out of it. I picked up 30 hp on the dyno a month ago by dropping my total timing from 41 degrees to 36. You might want to try disconnecting and plugging your vacuum advance, and then move down from there. If you have the money for it, there are some great heads available on the market.

Good luck!

 

Man, you guys are hardcore...

 

How lumpy was the idle at 800? Was it pretty bad?