I'll replace it with a manual trans ECU whenever I come across one in a junkyard or elsewhere at a decent price. Until then, I'm going to work with what I have. I've given up trying to upload the video for the time being. YouTube keeps messing up when I try to upload it, and now it says they are performing maintenance on the site and won't even let me try to upload it. Tried uploading it to photobucket also, but my computer froze up before it finished uploading. The video just shows it starting up, shows the ghetto rigged fuel pump I've got (the '89 F150 fuel pump) sitting on the fender with the feed and return hoses going into a gas can, and I rev it up a few times. If someone else wants to host it, let me know. It's an .AVI file and is 29.1 MB.
yeah. on my car i didn't install it i just have the purge valve or solenoid hanging in there and the engine runs fine idle and everything.
There is a way to upload videos on this site. I have at least one video here. Don't recall how, but there is a way. You can also upload videos on MySpace, if you have one...
code 334 is refering to the sensor on top of the egr valve. if the valve isnt seated fully it can throw that code. usally i would replace the egr valve. you want to use a oe ford ones. the after market ones usually set the code. code 126 refers to the map sensor wich is usualy mounted on the fire wall. it contains a crystal that is used to measure the atmospheric presure. if your system does not have a maf (mass air flow meter) then there should be a vac line to the map sensor. if it has a maf then you have a bap sensor that only has the elec plug. code 118 set because you didnt have the motor at operating temp when you ran the koeo test. dont worry about that. code 588 may be related to the egr valve but it also could be related to the controle solonid for the egr valve. the vac source for the solonid should come from a vac canister with check valve in the vac line from the motor to the canister. I hope this helps
Thanks for the info. I think I may end up just removing the EGR valve. Finally got the video of it running uploaded! Obviously, still have a long way to go.
Excellent! Way to go Jamie, just a few steps more and you're done. Gotta save money for another mav and 2.3 or 2.5 if gas keeps going up.
Doesnt sound all that bad... idles a bit high I think, but that can be fixed. Is that w/ or w/o the muffler?
you want to keep the egr. it opens to help fill the cylinder when your at part throttle. this takes up space in the cylinder that doesnt fill with the air fuel mixture. this will create a smaller area for the explosing to have to fill thus increasing efficency.
It was completely cold when I started it, hadn't been started at all that day. Only ran it for a minute or so. When I shut it off, the block was just barely even warm to the touch. Yea, the high idle is something I've gotta figure out. That was with absolutely no exhaust. The camera makes it sound a little more high pitched and raspy then it really does. Thanks again! Some sites I've seen say get rid of it, some say keep it. So I've been trying to weed through it all and figure out weather I really need it or not for a while now. Looks like I've got some junkyard hunting to do tomorrow.
EGR puts hot, fuel free, oxygen free, useless gasses in your cylinders. Not good for power. The gasses take up space that would otherwise be filled with useable fuel/oxygen. It is foolish to think that fuel/oxygen would not be taken in completely at any RPM, therefore needing a filler gas. Much less a very hot gas that hurts all sorts of things, including but not limited to engine cooling and detonation potential.
