Too bad you're not closer. I have some good E7 heads but shipping would be a killer. I mentioned the PCV valve 'cause I like to try the easy stuff first, even if its a long shot. If it was bad you could get more blowby out the breather.
i have to say iam with groberts101 on this one sounds like a cracked ring and or piston to me if hes getting blow by from breather
Assuming no major failure like a piston, if the engine has some blow by that won't keep it from running OK(all my early cars that had road draft tubes puffed so much blowby vapor under the car you'd think it could have been on fire)... First off I'd change that PCV valve and verify it has good vacuum supply, also I'd be tweaking the carb, they almost never run exactly right out of the box(adj for max vacuum)... Would be a good idea to verify correct iginition timing as well but a wondering idle and vacuum reading are usually carb related... If that doesn't help run the compression or leak-down tests as suggested, open the engine as a last resort...
one way I have checked to see if there is a vac. leak... remove the breather...start the car and let it idle. take a shop rag and your hand and put over the throat of the carb. if it continues to run, you have a vac. leak... I just used this method the other day and found a vac. leak...there was a crack in one of the vac. caps on my carb...
i use a spray botal of water and spray the gaskets and hoses if you here the motor studar then theres your leak
Can of starter fluid is what I've always used, when the engine revs up you've got your leak. Whenever I've had to find a leak the engine has already been stuttering quite a bit
I had a chance to work on my car agn today; wx was favorable, sunny, dry and mid 40's. I put a vac gauge on the manifold to try and figure out why the idle spd fluctates and why the car chokes when I put it in gear. Today my vac. goes frm abt 5"hg down to 10" w/ erratic idle, but much improved frm previous session. Also, I discovered a lot of smoke/exhaust coming frm the valve cover breather cap. Solved the problem w/ smoke frm the breather "defective PCV valve". The vac gauge reads I might have late valve timing or manifold vac leak. I blocked the vac fitting coming frm the base of the intake man to assure I did'nt have a leak some where other than the intake. I have not had a chance to do a compression test; that will be my nx test. What cud cause late valve timing? Worn lifters or cam surfaces?
My nx move is to try this. Im wondering abt the potential of fire hazard using this - but do want to get to the bottom of this...
I forgot u said put a shop rag and ur hand when I was wrkin on the car today. I just used my hand - the car did continue to run. I will use the rag the nx time workin on it - hopefully tommorrow... Thanks for all the suggestions/ help with this issue...
Sloppy timing chain. These cars came with the valve timing retarded from the factory for emmissions reasons along with low compression. A sloppy chain just makes it worse. A timing set that you can advance will get the timing back where it should be and increase cylinder pressure.
the rag is mainly to get a tight seal on the throat of the carb...as to not let any air in the throat...this way if it still runs, it's sucking air from some where else...
Ok Barry. I don't believe this car has fac chain. The engine has a mild cam. I don't know what the internals are but the engine supposedly had abt 12K milds on a rebuild when I got it. The price was right on the car so willing to take a chance on the vechicle. Long story short, I can't see installing another cam w/o a chain too. That's just my theory - don't make it so. Cud hve been used cam and chain. Anyway, I am thinkin the problem is vaccum leak somewhere. My guess might be the manifold. ..
My second ck today leads me to believe animation/scenario 10 or 12 leaking intake or worst late valve timing.
