Fuel Filter/Carb Problems

i have one right before the factory one, but before the fuel filter would probably be better.

 

im not too sure, i need to take it out this winter anyways so i can fix rust issues on my rear frame rails. Im going to clean it out then for sure and put some new seals in it.

Now im having a leak near the throttle body. its fine when i put gas to it but when i let off it starts to leak towards the bottom front and rear of the carb. It dies then all the gas comes out out onto the motor. I never even touched that part since i was just working on the top. Its just so weird im having this problem now. im thinking the main body to throttle body gasket blew.

 

hmm. tell me if im wrong here. my papaw used to be a mechanic for ford from about 1950-1980. he always took the chokes off all of his cars, said it was a waste of gas and power.

i in turn did this to my 70f100 302 truck, and it always ran perfect. in the winter it was hard to keep running only for a few miles if i had to stop, but it always ran perfect after about 5 minutes. this wasnt the same crappy hesitation my maverick has right now.

the mav feels more like a bad spray pump. lots of hesitation and surges, and hard to crank. i pulled the choke off of it to. i always just keep my foot on them at about 1400rpms until it warms up if its cold out. no biggie for me, but even this summer it ran like crap. is this just a common problem for these carter 1bl carbs? ive been reading mustang forums to and it seems this is also a problem they have if they have the same carb, or a 170-200.

 

if its that cheap ill probably do that then, thanks. i think i leaned the choke out because of the florida summer weather so i might adjust it again. average temperature here is still in the mid 80s though so its not like it gets cold but if you have trouble in texas then i might too.

 

you can get a nos carb off ebay pretty cheap for those motors I rebuilt the one on my 250 six it never did run exactly right so I bought a nos one and never had a carb problem after that but i still ran two fuel filters

 

I think i have the Carter yf I took off the Mercury I sold the car if you want the carb send me your address I'll never use it it was rebuilt but it probably needs new gaskets

 

im almost 100 percent sure the problem is at my accelerator pump lifter and my gasket deteriorated when i took it apart and didnt realize it. the rebuild kit gave me a bunch of the thin gaskets and one thick one so which ones do i use? im not too sure how it stays seated onto the carb either if you can explain that too me. theres also a circular indent where the lifter comes out so im wondering if theres supposed to be a gasket there too? none came in the kit so i assumed not.

also the fuel inlet and needle are completely different from what was there and the rebuild. should i stick with the simple originals or go with the slotted fuel inlet seat and and the spring loaded needle? i feel like the complexity of the needle would be more harm than good.

 

hmm maybe, i really like the holley rebuilds but if i dont get this one fixed i might use that for a temporary fix. thanks! If the yfa and the yf are similar enough maybe i could Frankenstein the best parts together to make one but i dont know if i could.

 

all a needle and seat does is this ,the float goes down as gas is being used usually the needle is hooked to the float ,as the float goes down it raises the needle this lets gas go into the bowl the float raises and pushes the needle down when it reaches full the needle lands in the seat and shuts the gas off this is basic info on some old carbs as long as it seats and shuts the gas off the needle and seat are usually fine all carbs hate vacuum leaks they won't run if the choke sticks closed part way leaking gaskets dry rotted rubber will mess them up too get on you tube or somewhere else and watch some videos on how a carb works once you understand the basics all carbs do the same thing they mix fuel and air in the right ratio and put it in the motor it is hard to troubleshoot without some back ground on how it works The first carb on a Harley was made out of a tomato can and it worked manufacturers of carb kits throw in extra gaskets sometimes to account for different variations of the carb use the one that looks like the gasket you took off

 

Good thing he retired, if you want any resemblance of decent drivability when cold, a choke is necessary...

Yes it'll have a slight increase in fuel usage when cold(so do modern EFI engines), but assuming choke is working correctly, that's only for a couple minutes... Back when chokes were manual(generally before late '50s) they were often removed or adj till they didn't fully close, as probably a third of drivers would forget it was set...

As far as power, we ain't talking race engine, will be no difference...

 

yeah im just making sure there is no difference in the oem parts and the rebuild. I dont want to put the carb back together and then find out the rebuild part it worst than the original. ive already torn the carb apart a couple times and had to get a tow back home when driving it the other day after i thought i fixed it.

 

Well today i finally got the new carb to work on my mav. I had some major problems of gasket and vacuum leaks which i finally figured out. The gasket between the intake manifold and the egr adapter plate was shot so i replaced that one and the throttle body gasket with a much more heavy duty one. i tuned it to be best of my abilities and plugged off the vacuum attachments. I could not figure out where the egr vacuum hose went, since the manual places it where the choke vacuum actuator is so i changed the pcv valve out so no vacuum line goes to it. ill probably change out the air filter to a bigger one, that is just what the auto parts store had and my old stock one would not fit.

 

next steps are also making a bracket for the accelerator cable too. the placement where it connects to this carb is closer and angled, which makes my pedal not as smooth.