man.. that thing looks sturdy! Is that 12 guage? I'll bet it weighs over 20 pounds with all the guages in it. lol For a race/light street car.. I liked the aluminum one much better. Hopefully you eventually get that one finished up and swapped over after the time pinch is gone.
I doubt it's 12 gauge, seemed thinner. The main problem is the race is in 3 days, I don't have access to a TIG welder or anyone that reliably will get the welding done on the current aluminum gauge panel I made last year. I doubt it's 20 lbs but certainly quite a bit heavier than the aluminum one. For this kind of a race weight isn't gonna be as much of a problem as aerodynamics and getting downward pressure.
got the adapter installed in the case, the temp sensor installed. Put the T5 back up on the car and bolted up the drive shaft to the yoke.
Bryant borrowed this punch for us....what a difference... I was able to punch the holes for the riv nuts...worked great
I shredded the metal when I had to cut off the pods the first time but here it is painted...not like it makes a difference putting the gauges in...
here is the CNC slave cylinder, took it out and plugged the master outlet so I wouldn't have too much fluid escape.... rebuild kit from CNC view down the cylinder of the slave cylinder... cleaned it really well and then blew some air into the inlet of the slave and out came the piston... piston is out... this is the push rod, didn't have to do anything with this really, slips right now and in removed the rubber rings from the piston cleaned it really well again with paper towel, installed the rubber seals with some brake fluid...and reinstalled the piston this is a good tool to move things around the piston all done with the new boot placed, old one looked bad old boot installed back up on the car
heres the front air dam we are working on. it should be done tomorrow. we plan on reproducing this and the other aero parts that we are making for mo's car.
that looks like a promising functional design. Definately wouldn't want to fall down in front of that thing! lol Are you going to use a splitter too? Just keep in mind when designing the mounting system that based on the frontal area of that sized dam and air entrapment zone under the front bumper.. there will be significant pressure and stress on all mounting points once you hit 130+ with that thing. Extra support in the middle and dont forget the very ends catch the most pressure as the air gets sheered, ripped and dragged off the corners(especially on sharply transitioned designs). Multiple angles or smooth radii are best as thet work like valve seats in the way they form the air coming off the dam and turn it more into a "splitter" to reduce wind resistance and still reduce the air buildup like a flat dam would. In my mind.. it looks cooler your way though. The most functional designs are not always the most attractive when you want to look mean on the street. lol
