I just traced the passenger side onto the driver's side and I was done. Got new valve cover gaskets and installed them after putting some locktite on the nuts holding the baffles in place.
That's the reason I don't think a flat plate type of baffle is benefical on a race motor............or any motor that sees a constant or high rpm....I use a tube with internal baffles............................IMHO
I've been looking for an alternative to the plate setup I have right now. Where can I get something like that? Thanks for posting the pics.
good point! at least in this case though.. those girdles will help reduce oil splash by at least a bit. as for the air filter base.. there is power and throttle response to be had by all if one chooses wisely. R2C makes some killer stuff and that would be my first stop before settling for an off the shelf cookie cutter type setup. Since you're obviously no stranger to mod work and improvisation.. I would try to merge these designs.. http://www.r2cperformance.com/products/product.aspx?ProductId=264.. into another base whenever possible... or see if the complete setup will work for you. I've even seen the occassional need to rejet just because of the cfm increase with these things when moving from poorly designed bases. It's usually on the higher rpm builds.. but even the little dogs should see partial gain. and this.. http://www.knfilters.com/racing/flowcontrol.htm.. is a design I've used at least 4 times in that past(they are huge and limited to non-HP style main bodies which makes them tough to shoehorn into many bays though).. that I intend to merge that R2C base into because I feel that the R2C stuff has too small a diameter(14 inch compared to the flow controls 16 inch) and therefore too steep an incline(it's like a wall at the base of the radius IMO). Never tried the R2C filters.. but I do know a few teams/guys that use them and swear that they made more power than the other stuff.
Here is where I buy mine, although I replace Joe's filter with a K&N, or I think you can just buy the tubes................................it's been a while. http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=129
I like the ones on top due to the smaller footprint and less clearancing issues. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Valve-Cover-Baffles/ TBH... I don't think you'll be able to use a shorter cover and will need to step up to a tall enough version for traditional baffles(that olerodder mentioned above) to be able to clear those girdles.
I think Mo has the same valve covers I do, and with the mod of drilling holes in the baffle should get just barely enough clearance. My girdles are just a little thicker because the valves are not in-line...........but I cracked a set of these covers using flat baffles..............I miss gauged by 1/32"... I just don't like anything inside the valve covers...........except for the squirters which need to be there. Another thing to remember is that in an endurance motor...90miles is a long/short race things do get warm in the motor and things do grow just a little.........................IMHO
Darn, I just realized I forgot to check for clearance between those girdlesI installed and the rockers at max height. My engine dude said it needs to be at least 1/8"....
do you have a hydraulic setup? if so.. then be sure to allow that extra bit just in case you overreved it/pumped up the lifters/floated the valves a bit. Because rev limiters won't always save your ass every time. lol
yes hydraulic lifters! and since I'm very adept at overreving I will definitely take extra care making my measurements
One other thing you may want to think about since it looks like you've got more clearance than my engine combonation................are a set of these; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STF-63940/?rtype=10 This would mean you wouldn't have to to anything to the baffles you have already put in the covers and would have plenty of room above the girdles, but it would mean getting studs for the valve covers and two sets of gaskets. The gaskets I have to keep everything sealed up are these; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1684/
IMO, you might as well just buy a good set of taller fabbed valve covers(with better baffles to begin with) once you get into the cost of spacers like that. and I use these gaskets on my 383 due to price. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2301/ And I believe.. Mr gasket maybe?.. also makes the cheaper rubber/steel core gaskets too. They aren't quite as good as the felpros that rodder linked above.. but all you need do is to use a light coat of sealer to add insurance because of the flat design.
