the rear decklid and package tray is aluminum, I don't need to paint that right? I doubt it will oxidize. I painted the cage with a spray last time, gonna do the same this time but it's gonna be hard to get to all the areas.
I wouldn't paint it simply because it looks too good the way it sits now. However, given your location.. I would use a good quality aluminum polish/protectant since it adds a thin layer of protection and reduces water spotting and oxidization from salted air. Even if you werent by the ocean.. it would slowly dull over time due to oxygen exposure alone. I use Sharkhide and Wizards wadded polish most often these days.. but Maguiars has some products that work pretty well also.
I personally wouldn't polish it, that would look....................well, more like a show car than a "real race car". I would use some type of clear coat though to keep the natural aluminum finish...........and it will be easier to clean with a clear coat over it......................IMHO
Hello, everything looks great.I would make sure the rear deck lid and package tray don't reflect any sun light or headlights back to you. Front glass or mirror. Tony
mo, steve has a can of shark hyde. get it from him and use it on your rear fire wall. it should keep it just the way you want it.
Getting pretty close to the date....Bryant is gonna help me by changing the gears in the rear end, he will go over the T5 and change the shift fork and change the 5th gear to a 0.90 ratio. I will continue to work on the wiring, I have to paint the cage, bolt the seats down with washers for more support and put the interior back together. We have some good plans on doing some aerodynamics work and looks like I'm going to go with the tires I used last year.
Still have to work on figuring the overheating problem, could be the t-stat...gotta rebuild the clutch slave cylinder and I that should be most of it....probably no time for the EFI work like originally planned...
While you're in there.. trash that 195 degree t-stat and go with a 180 degree. Personally.. I usually go with a 160 degree for even more tuning flexibility since the motor will never stay that cold under extended hard throttle anyways. More power due to a slightly cooler engine and more agressive tune.. plus you get more saftey margin.. all in one fell swoop.
i helped mo this afternoon by swapping the gears in the rear end and pulling the t5 out to freshen up and add some upgrades to. heres the wheel, 31spline axle and willwood rotor taken off the car heres the rear end with the the axle removed heres the rear end in the car heres the thirdmember parts ready to be assembled. heres the thridmember ready to go back in the car. i pulled the t5 out and appart. i didnt get any pics of it. there was problems found in it. we are going to be changing the 5th gear ratio, put in billet syncro dogs, and a billet cluster shaft retainer. ill have pics of it apart tomorrow.
Just wish you lived closer..................finding someone that knows rearends isn't as easy as just going through the yellow pages.
Don't think we will have the TIG welder setup in time for me to be able to rework my current gauge pod, this is what I have right now (it's painted now).... It's made out of aluminum, need to make out out of steel so I can use the MIG on it. Gonna order some metal from the local metal supplier and build 8 small 2 1/16" gauge pods and 2 of the larger ones.... the larger ones also need to be moved down so I can see them through the steering wheel.
