like he said... put a switch... thats if you mean a on and off switch... those thermo switchs suck unless its a OE one. but they always if anything turn on to early or to late. and for turning it off they stay on forever! btw whats the PN on that rad? if you don't mind me asking how much was it?
GRI-1-26182-X at $189 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-26182-X&N=700+115&autoview=sku On/off switch would be the easiest to install, but I would like to find a way to make it all automatic. I might just go to a hotter thermostat to slow down the water flow. I have 160 high flow in there now, I think that will help it be more overkill... The description on this link calls it a "dual row"...
You sure none of those adjustable switches are any good? I am looking at some down in the $20-30 range. There is one non-adjustable (on at 180, off at 170, which is what I would set an adjustable one at) for $16. That would make things a lot easier for me.
Good choice & it looks clean. They also have the same rad size but to handle more hp. Part number is GRI-1-56182-X I talk to the guys & there nice. One is good for 450ish hp & the other for 650+ hp. I will be ordering one also.
So, is mine good for the 450HP? I only have about 200+/- now, and didn't even think to get one for later HP gains. I will never need anything over 450, except after I put my A/C back on...that might heat things up a little.
looks great,I belive I,ve got the same radiator.Summit Griffin,right?I was thinking of using their universal brackets kit.I,m a long way from install though,but it good to see it in a car.
I'm not trying to be a wise-guy, just hoping to learn something. I've never heard of selecting a radiator based on horsepower. What's the theory and formula? Thanks.
The theory is more HP = more heat. Formula = "buy the one that says rated for 500 HP" Not really an issue, at this point in my buildup, but I should have looked just to see when I would have to buy another one.
Also, wish I would have seen the $16 bracket kit. I wasted most of a day and at least that much money (after buying some stuff, changing my mind, and driving back to swap it out). Seems like I have a bullet-proof setup, though. Not worried about any movement or wear and tear...
I bought it based on price. The "direct bolt in" models run upwards of $600. I paid under $200 and just had to stress over how to get it to bolt on. I did NOT spend $400 worth of time and materials to make it fit!!! Plus, if it idles at 165 degrees, I am sure it can handle another 100-150 hp, which is about as high as I plan to go with the stock block.
I agree with what you are saying....I was just never aware to order a radiator based on horsepower......I have a HOWE in mine....I had to cut and massage it to fit....I have less than $5 in the mounting hardware. It really doesn't have to be real rigid....it surprising how the hoses really hold that radiator in place. I thunk you did great!
The only things holding it from moving side to side are the 2 little screws on the top (two on the front, two on the back, bolted to the silver bracket. The bulk of the support is the long cradle I made 28X4X1"deep that hold the radiator at the bottom with some foam to keep metal to metal contact from occuring. The top C-shaped bracket holds the top from moving forward/backward, and then has those coupld of screws to keep it from sliding side to side. I was going to use much larger hardware, but after I put it in the cradle, it barely moved even under serious pushing. So I just used small hardware at the top and it seems to really be sturdy.
