Get a dry sump tank, some -12 an hoses, plug it in and have some fun. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-331-FOR...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item20c35c7fcb&vxp=mtr
For anyone interested in what a Huffaker GT is.................here is a picture of one doing hot laps at Laguna Seca. There were only 15/16 made and they were killer fast. Huffacker is a local NorCal racecar builder.
lol.. I think he said he wanted to drive it on the street occassionally? That is a great deal though if you don't mind the upkeep of an all out race engine with all the goodies though. Could detune it/lower compression and run a blow through arrangement and you're sure to be close to 1,000HP with that setup too. Again.. IMHO, a turbo motor is the way to go if the OP wants to remain docile enough on the street while having big power on tap. Because unless you run huge displacement.. spray it.. or rev the ever lovin piss out of it?(which will still require larger displacement too).. you'll never even get close enough to that mark and remain streetable. In other words.. N/A motors(especially smaller displacement) will be far too snotty and undriveable with shorter gears out back. Also good to keep in mind that full effort race motors don't like to be heavily muffled to be forced into becoming street legal either. Another benefit of a turbo system is that the exhaust is inherently quite in comparison. Well.. at least until you spool it up to make power.
Definitely a lot to think about and plan out. Turbo seems to be what is recommended. I am gonna try hard to keep the shock towers, some of the race classes I've looked into require the shocks to be in their original location even though they can be after market shocks. I prefer to have the engine built by someone as local as possible. As for the car, it's certainly not ready yet for that kind of power but it's sure getting there. I really was impressed by Erick's mav and he happens to be a local guy here so I'm sure he can point me in the right direction as far as headers etc. A professional driving course is in order. I'm not one to drive erratically on the streets and generally cruise at about 70-75 on the freeway.
With that motor i have listed above, you too can do this....Just think what it would be like on the street Turn the volume up!.. http://youtu.be/lK96hLWIUbE
What classes are you look at that require you to keep the stock shock towers? "Keeping the shocks in the same location" is a pretty broad statement and can be taken a couple of different ways. If you can find someone in your area would certainly be preferred. I just visited a friend, Tom Renteria (their family has a very nasty Valiant Pro-Mod car that turns high 5's) and he is building a motor for the owner of the In-N-Out Burger's................it will be about 1100hp on Carbs....and be streetable..................although it's not SB...........can't wait to see the dyno numbers...................anyway, Tom does engine work out of his garage.........although it's a large garage (but he can machine everything from boring to balancing)..............so I guess it just depends on the reputation and quality of work the guy does. But if you do this, just make sure the quality of the parts are "top tier" as you don't want to scatter a $25k motor. One last thing, I would actually check into a Whipple Charger, Magnuson, or Kenne Bell. Very streetable and no spool up or turbo lag......just instant power when you hit the trottle, and believe more street friendly......IMHO
Sure got my heart pumping and left and right foot twitching...........nothing like carving corners at 150+..............thanks for sharing, that made my day.
This is one of the classes I was interested in: http://www.pscaracing.com/Rules/rules_12_hotstreet.html FRONT SUSPENSION: All cars must retain stock suspension, aftermarket tubular control arms, coil over kits, or OEM front strut retrofits are permitted. But must be a direct bolt on, no welding modifications permitted. Aftermarket Racing Struts with spindle mounts or hub mounts designed for tube type front ends are prohibited. Stock wheelbase will be enforced on all vehicles.
here is another less competitive class, designed for the "truly daily driver" http://www.pscaracing.com/results_scr4j11.html
I guess I thought you'd do more road racing than drag racing.............trying get planted with 1000hp and stock rear suspension should prove to be interesting. I was thinking something along these lines for the front and rear....................but if you have to use stock rear suspension I guess they won't work.................Ok, I'll quite dreaming with your money about a 1000hp+ Maverick capable of over 200mph.
Not a problem, I appreciate the input. Never hurts to have too much info! I've also given another option a thought...building the engine myself, with lots of supervision that is. Bryant and I put the 331 that I'm running right now together but had the short block assembled by our engine builder and very happy with it. I could have the short block assembled by someone else or try to do it myself. I would have to collect a lot of data in order to blueprint it properly. The other factor is figuring out what parts I should go with.
The parts would be the easiest...............with exception of the cam and heads, but since you would probably have a custom cam anyway I'd go see Dave Crower since he is close............infact I'd go talk to him about the crank and rods also.............IMHO I'm sure Bryant and yourself could put the motor together...........which would just leave the machine work to be done outside. The only downside would be buying the correct tools to make sure your machinest did everything you wanted..............they would be (unless Bryant has these then) I'd say go for it...............heck, I'd even venture that far South and help. You would need a good set of out outside and inside micrometers plus a bore micromenter. You would also need a good dial indicator with stand and arms..........a 16" or 18" degree wheel, along with the usual hand tools and some good cutting stones and HD dremel and good ring grinder. It would also be nice to have a Lathe or have access to one check the runout on the cam before it goes in. You would be checking the line bore, each cylinder and its corresponding piston, rings, bearings, crank journals, rod ends, rod bushings, piston pins, crank end play.......................just to mention a few things, but I'm sure you guys could do it. Let me know, I'd volunteer to help with my limited knowledge. Just plan the build around a race weekend at one of your many drag strips and I'd bring the Maverick down to race and work................and maybe get Bryant's help with a new pumpkin and axles.
It's very cool of you to offer, may need to take you up on it! Doing it this way would be pretty dang exciting as opposed to having someone else do it. We've spoken to Crower before so probably a good place to start for the cams etc.
