When have I ever messed up a set of heads? IF, IF you had the seats ground and the valves done in a machine; hand lapping has already done the damage to a good seal.. Remember now... if.
I'd go for the shop experience. Let them do it. That way you have some recourse in the event something is not to your liking. I normally like to do as much as I can myself, but some stuff is better left to the guys at the machine shop. Heads are where the power comes from. You don't want to take a chance at uckfaying up where the power comes from......Again. I say this in fun, not to be an all knowing mans member. Hell I'm 3 sheets out as I type. But some of my best logic is drunk logic.:Handshake
maradic acid you can get it at home depot or lowes. pour it into a plastic spray bottle for chemicals set them out away from everything and spray them down inside and out. Let them sit then just spray off with water. Water kills the acid. Might have to do them a couple of times but it will get them clean. make sure you use rubber gloves and eye protection. Works the best in the sun but be careful it is acid and it will burn you bad. Neet part is when it starts to cook it smokes. And you can't use to much the more the better. If you can get it to puddle it really eats. Also works good on your concrete driveway to remove oil stains.
I used it in my garage before I put down the epoxy coating. It bubbled and smoked, burned my lungs, but etched the concrete really good. The epoxy paint stuck so well that I can roll my wheel dollies over it, or jack up the car on jack stands or roll it around on my jack, and it doesn't flake or chip off.
I love the stuff I use it for alot of things another good use if your toilet doesn't flush right pour some down it and flush. And yes it needs to be used in a highly ventalated area.
I use muratic acid all the time, but I have never had it degrease things. I use it on my concrete cutting equipment to etch the concrete slurry off of the stuff. It burns the concrete right off the metal, but any oils stay behind... no matter how much I use. After aciding my stuff, I then spray it with Purple Power, let it sit for just a moment, then hose it off. This takes off all the grease, diesel, and oil that the acid leaves. You MUST put soap or baking soda on your aluminum, iron, or steel after getting muratic acid on it! If you don't, the residue will cause major rust (or powdering in the case of aluminum). You MUST neutralize the acid. Water does not neutralize acid.
And another 2 minutes writing a post.... I am just going to play it safe. I will degree the cam this weekend and check my valve-piston clearances, then let the shop hot tank it next week. I am broke right now so I really am not in a hurry.
Back in the days before steam cleaners and car washes.(hint) They used the crystal Drain O in a 55 gallon drum to clean blocks and such. I did this one time with a block, Cleaned it very well, only problem it cleaned the water jackets so well it found a thin place in the casting. Saved me a lot of time and money, ( i was in the process of rebuilding the motor, Till i found the hole)
I used this technique to remove rust on small part of my Grand Am and it work real well!! It just take time but it work perfectly! I saw this in a magazine and they use it on head and even with a seize engine!! Took 2 days for the engine to free up! The setup that is use on the link you post is very interesting...will try it for sure! Thanks for sharing!
i agree, and only a buck a can. got to a dollar store and load up. used it on my block, heads, engine bay, just dont let it sit on aluminum to long, it turned my intake black.
Well, I tried the oven cleaner, and surprisingly, it worked pretty well. But nothing like a good hot-tanking. I dropped them off at the shop today and will pick them up Monday or tuesday, with a fresh .010 shaved off the bottom.
