da#m i was hopen to run the kit. o well im a metal fabricator its still easy to do with sheet steel.where in n.c. are you at gt 1974? i have a 76 comet down there in goldsboro in storage.
i found it simple to make the new towers Stephen i might have already asked this before but, are you getting Total Control Products coilover set up? or another company id like to do a similar set up in couple years
I could tell you what setup i'll be running, but then i'd have to kill you!!!!! And I really don't want that!!!
Even better info to have. Good luck with the project. Q: Since you were able to put the 1-3/4" Primaries on your car 'as was', what was it that made you want to change (handling, weight distribution at launch, both, etc.)?
you can cut out alot of metal and not worry about strength.. when you weld in the new metal, the "welds" will cause it to strengthen up because of the bead... unless you grind it down... and you can always use thicker metal than stock to give it extra strength
Good question....in order to fit up some BIG headers for the 447" stroker motor, I needed to come up with a way to open up a bunch of room and still stay within the rules of several classes that i'm interested in running. The headers will be custom, built by ME, 2" primaries for the first 8-12 inches then they will step up to 2 1/8", into a 4" collector. I got the kit from Stahl headers. The way that I "notched" the towers, still allows for the strut to mount in the stock location....it just doesn't utilitze the upper control arm Also, as a bonus i'll still be able to run my aluminum strut tower braces. Also, when all is said and done I will have lost about 20 lbs in unsprung weight. The best kind to lose!
If you notice, the Total Control Products setup still uses an upper control arm, therefore you could only do the "standard" notch to the towers. This notch "style" opens up about 6" of additional room on EACH side of the engine bay!!
Yeah, like Comet GT said, that kit is very nice. Another option that allows you to do a similar notch, and lose the lower control arm mount as well is the AJE kit.
If I did what they have in okibono's picture, I would take out even more of the towers. Doesn't seem like you need very much of those points sticking out at the top. Seems like you could just about go flat on the towers, then reinforce with a monte bar.
I was gonna go with the AJE front end.....but, it modifies where the lower control arm mounts and the way it mounts.....not allowed in most "street car" classes..... Now, if I ever decide to go Outlaw 10.5 racing, that will be the front end that I go with..... hmmmmm......outlaw.........
