Hardest part about dropping a trans is getting the bell housing to engine bolts loose. And even thats not very hard. They can just be kind of tricky to get to sometimes. First pull the drive shaft. Then remove the 4 nuts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. You'll have to remove them one at a time while using a breaker bar to rotate the engine about a quarter turn each time to get to each one through the little inspection plate. Put a jack under the trans with a piece of wood or something between the jack and trans, remove the bell housing to engine bolts, remove the cross member, lower the trans about an inch and work it loose from the motor. Lower it down a little more and pull pull the modulator vaccum line loose and take the 2 cooler lines that go to the radiator loose. Lower it on down. Best to have an extra set of hands to help keep the trans steady on the jack. Don't want it falling off! I can drop a trans in about an hour.
Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. I finally got it out. Ended up taking a grinding wheel on a dremel tool and grinding the blade down until it would fit in the seal, and just took cuts as much as I could without going completely through and damaging the area that the seal is held into. Finally, got a screwdriver into one of the grooves and it just popped out. I wasted about 4 hours on this damned thing Here is what was left when I got it out...
I know it is frustrating but it is part of working on old cars. Glad you got it out! Good luck on the rest of the project.
If you have the time Iv' had goog luck with"Deep Creep" penetrating solvent. It's like wd-40 but ive put it on 40 year old parts and gotten them to give up thier grip, Dont get any in the case , use a piece of rag.I got a stuck steel casing out by grabing a needle nose and turning it inward on itself like a sardine can.I tunned the metal against itself to avoid galling up the surface. Good Lukk. It sucks to get slayed by an ounce of steel but I've been there.