Right from RHS website it states that modifications may be needed for spark plug and wire clearances. I know this may not be your exact set of heads but here is a link to the site, I also did a web search and your not the only one with this issue but I have not found were somebody had the fix http://www.racingheadservice.com/Information/Technical/Heads/TechSheets/35003-01IS.pdf
my plug wires sit right on the header..aluminum will heat up just as much..........great idea but dont think it will work in my problem and yellow, i have found the same thing..no one has posted the answer to this problem..so ill be heading down tomorrow morning to look for some shorty plugs and 90* boots for and see if i can get a little clearance. in the book they showed me before with those plugs it listed them as 3/16 to 3/8 shorter, so hopefully its closer to the 3/8" and hopefully that with a 90* will actually go on and give me a little clearance.
how come i have not found these yetttt! oh lord i hope i can get 90* ones with shortys to fit and then ill try and order those..withstands 2000*? should be enough lol. price isn't even too bad either since ive already bought 2 sets of MSD
well ive spent that much trying to solve this issue..so i might as well just buy them and fix it right..plus ill have the nicest wires in town lol...hopefully the local store can order them in and i can check the fit. These RHS heads = a curse with our cars..our small header selection just doesn't fit AT ALL..
Why does the local store have to order them? I bet you might still need to dimple the header.. Looks reallly close.
FWIW since you already are getting ceramics, the Ford Racing wires have an extremely high heat threshold before they melt because they use a silicone plug boot. Think OveGlove around your plug wires. Plus they come in 9mm and are extremely awesome. I love mine. And they are a 45° boot. Just in case you don't like the ceramics.
sounds more like an issue with the supplied lengths in the chosen kit than anything else. Couple of pointers based on similar experiences in the past. unless you have seen a particular kits expected fitment on your same model in the past?.. ALWAYS order universal kits and cut to length after proper routing. Sometimes even universal kits are not even long enough to route all safe and pretty like.. which is where buying a small spool of wire to make your own can really pay off. Some shops even sell the stuff by the foot so you can measure exactly what you need plus an extra foot for good measure rather than buying 25 or 50 feet of the stuff and then having it collect dust if you don't make a lot of custom wires very often. Buy the lowest ohm rated wires you can find and don't buy the cheap neon craptastic stuff that concerns itself more with looks rather than resistance and voltage flow. Being dramatic there.. but you get the picture I'm sure. I use the universal Moroso Ultra 40's in kit form whenever possible(I'm just too damned cheap to buy their humongous rolls) and then go to the MSD bulk rolls from there. Not mandatory to use.. but the crimping tools are nice to have for professional and quicker results. http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=39220 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-34013/ Ideally.. the boots/wires should never come in contact with ANY surface.. other than the seperating looms plastic.. or cross one another after leaving the cap. In my experience so far.. the best boots to use for the Ford HEI type cap/angle plug arrangements are the 135 degree.. or universal bend to fit types for ease of routing and adjustment. You can buy boot kits for just about anything possible these days but just be sure they're spec'd for the wire size being chosen is all. And yes header wrap works well to avoid this issue.. but proper fitment is still key here.. as nothing on the market(including those fancy 2000 degree versions) is made to directly lay against a header. They are all just solutions to avoid heat related damage from radiant sources without prolonged direct contact. The ONLY solution that I've ever seen that can handle prolonged direct contact like that is to wrap a ceramic coated header and then STILL use a high heat resistant sleeve on the less than optimum boots/wires that are making contact. But in the end.. all that expensive hubub is just a bandaid solution to improper lengths and routing of wires in the first place. Aside from spark plug to header clearance issues like you're dealing with here of course. PS. with that plug to header clearance.. I'd be looking at thicker exhaust gaskets to add space.. in combination with shorty plugs. The remflex gaskets are pricy.. but are thicker than most by an additional 1/8 inch or so. Hope that gives some additional ideas to work around the issue here.
I get them to order it so I can return it if they dont work.. If I order from jegs or somewhere I pay shipping both ways to and from canada
i cant bring the headers out anymore...we have the same car there aint room for anything..the wires are long enough to route them what ever way i wanted to but that doesnt help keep them off the header...those 2000* wires..jeez what diff does the temp make if its right against it or beside it..i doubt the headers will ever get close to 1200* so they should be fine? then i was thinking again..hedman headers, do they come off of the head different, straighter out then curve down and back? as the hooker start the bend back right away which reduces my room also..ill have to look into this and maybe buying new headers..you know? why not waste another few hundred on something i already have...never know when you need a set of headers that dont fit. id really like to just fix this an easy way and the cheapest way possible (140 dollar wires)
the accel 9000 series wires are just like the other ones i recommended except that they have some sort of high temp coating on plug boots.
what do you think about the expensive ceramic's layin against the header? will they last forever since there 2000*? or will they melt. (if i get them to even fit)
