Just picked up a HEI gm style distributor for the 302, Real cheap, Im happier than a pig in S**t, lol
I'm happy for ya' man! It is an exillerating feeling to get close to getting your hot rod runnig. I hope the best for you, and your Maverick.
You are on the right track. Before I start here is the one thing I will say you need to do. ARP in the mains and rods. STOP, everything else and put those first on your list. Ford small block are strong but the fasteners used by Ford in a std or even roller blocks were not made to turn 5,000 plus rpm's as offen as us performance minded people like to do. This is a corner so many people say, it'll be ok, no it won't. I like the studs for the main bearing caps, stronger then bolts. Patriot Freedom Heads have taken the best of most the modern tech and made a strong street head. Good to about 500Hp if you can get all the gases out of the tube. Out of the tube? Good luck here, all I can say is the bigger the better but the harder to install. I've never seen a set of headers that were easy to put in our car but I'm sure someone here has. The cam, Hyd flats are best for the street but I like a little more lift and duration but that just me. The 112 lobe sept is good. People will know you have a cam Shock tower mod? it's not for everyone but if you are going to be toying with your motor alot think about it. I like the combo you have going. The only thing I think I would change and this is just personal thing with me, is your CID. I love the 347 stroker. Not to much side pressure for a stock 302 block and gives more bang for the buck then most other mods except NOS. The 347 is a bolt in mod, sweet and simple. For your first time out I feel you have done your home work and like so many other didn't do (myself included) you have asked for advise, smart! Good luck and keep everyone up to date on how it coming along. As always this is just my .02 but I'm right on the ARP stuff. Terry Gates AKA Bossmav
If you are going to get your block line bored, be sure to do it with the ARP main bolts torqued in place. My 4 bolt Cleveland was line bored using stock main bolts and then afterwards I wanted to go with ARP bolts. My engine builder wouldn't change to the ARP bolts without re-line boring because of the greater clamping torque of the ARP bolts.
You'll also want to install the rod bolts before the machine work is done on them. I sold a friend the rotating assembly out of a Pontiac 400 to fund a 455 build (my numbers matching block otherwise I'd have sold it complete). He added ARP bolts and that threw the tolerences out of whack and he roasted some bearings. Neither of us knew that could happen but when the macine shop checked it all out it was confirmed. The rods had less than 20k miles when he put the bolts in and had been resized for my build.
please use another piston i have a few sets of KB hyp pistons THEY SUCK!!! if they run even a little bit lean they will crack or break i will try and post pics of a few of them i would use speed pro hyps or forged they arent to expensive and are really a good piston
Another http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/photo.php?fbid=1500602165787&set=a.1500601845779.2061506.1556179339&pid=31026632&id=1556179339another pic
Got the engine in the car, Got it running and im telling ya it talks s**t, It will chew your a** out, lol In other words it sounds like it wants to eat a toyota for lunch. Bout to order a 9 inch in a couple of months, gotta save some money. In other news i completely rebuilt the front suspension with all new parts, control arms and such. right now i am moving the battery to the trunk and i made a battery box out of an old bed frame, welded a piece on there to mount the starter solenoid and the main cut off switch. Did away with the ole fuel tank and put in a fuel cell. As usual its a work in progress. So anyway its been nearly a year since i last posted and thought i would update everyone that was interested. I really appreciate all the advise and hope everyone had plenty to eat on thanksgiving. Merry Christmas God bless all of you.