Thanks for the compliments. The reddish coating is Eastwoods rust encapsulator. I haven't decided what to use for an undercoating yet.
Another thing I did is add a exhaust mount for the drivers side. This factory brace has provisions for a passenger side hanger mount but none for the left side. I didn't think about it when I did my Sprint and the exhaust guy just put a big sheet metal screw through the floor. So I just duplicated the right side by welding a couple of nuts on a piece of 1/8" plate and then welded it to the brace. I also put a "factory" dent for clearance just like the right side.
Dennis, you cut up a perfectly good rear valance!!!! Looks awesome!!!!! I have to give you a call soon.
Nice work and I like the choice on the exhaust tips. I've been thinking that mine should be revised to something similar. Like you, I have been looking at my taillights and looking for a better match to them.
Just waiting for the alarm clock to go off. Nothing much I can really do until the day comes and thats about 14 months away.
Power rack & pinion upgrade. Had my buddy Nick come up to give me a hand with this project. I basically used Dave's (55crownvic) pictures as a guide to installing mine. One difference is I wanted to use the factory drag link so I can use stock tie rod ends and no chance of bump steer. First thing I did was install the factory steering box, idler arm, and linkage set up to determine center and compare travel. The Maverick set up moves 7 1/8" left to right, but also moves back 1 1/2" as it goes to either extreme. Maybe some of you geometry wizards can tell me how much lateral movement you loose by this rearward movement. The Cavalier rack moves 5 1/2" total, but its all straight lateral movement. So your probably loosing less than 3/4" of travel on max turn. Well worth it in my opinion. After I had it all centered, I welded some braces to keep the drag link in the correct spot and removed the steering box and idler arm. I also cut off the ends of the drag link where they attached. From there it was just a matter of finding the best location and orientation for the rack, making sure there is access to install the hoses. We cut some 1/4" plate steel and tacked the mount together. Here is both mounts tacked up and the drag link in the proper place. We have the rack turned so that a straight pice of steel will land right on top of the drag link. The original mount uses those bushings. I'm guessing its to isolate road vibrations from the rack. So I figured it was important to make them work for my set up. The original mount must have been about 3/4". I'm using 1/4" so I needed to cut them all down. I took 2 of the bushings, inserted the steel sleeve, and cut the body off with a razor blade. The other two I inserted in the steering plate and used a sander to level them out. Once the bushings were cut, I marked the metal insert and cut it down to size. I actually cut it about 1/32" shorter than the combined bushings so I can get good compression on them. And here is the finished steering link ready for some primer and paint. I need to get some bolts that are 1/2" shorter than the ones in the Moog kit to attach it to the rack. Now its just a matter of welding and cleaning up the brackets. Here are pictures of the finished brackets and the rack installed. I made that top washer out of 1/8" plate steel. Now we need to do this all again for Nick's Maverick. I like to thank Dave aka 55crownvic for posting the pictures to use as a guide, Dave Boyer for supplying me with the needed part numbers, and especially Nick Dominick for is assistance in doing this project.