Name that messed-up front end component!

Remember the clues... This problem "corrects itself" if I either jack the front up and put it back down, or just back up about 10 feet.

 

are the upper control arm nuts that hold it to the shock tower still tight?
are any of the inner or outer tie rod threads striped or rusted out?
does the steering box have excessive slop in it?

can you stop the car or get the car in your driveway when its having the problem then have some one bounce on it while you look at each suspension part for any weird movement?

 

Power steering? Slave cylinder?

 

Don't think so. The toe becomes visibly wrong when this happens, so I don't think this is happening on both wheels together.

Good question on the UCA nuts. I know they're fine on the right side. (I've so far focused my search on that side, because it seems to be a right turn in particular that triggers it) But I haven't looked on the left yet.

Tie rod threads are in great shape, steering box is tight...

 

What about the frame around where the strud rod goes through? Could be cracked and bending under pressure or even broken.

 

Hell I hope not. I've been all under the car with that part of the frame supported by jackstands. I will take a look there...

 

Not particularly the large part of the frame but the plate that the strut rod goes through inside that frame crossmember. Sounds like your lower control arm is being pushed back when turning. thats why backing up or lifting it will release it until its forced back again from a turn, and going straight dosnt apply much rearward pressure on the arm.

It may not feel loose because the lower control arm bushing is keeping the control arm in place when you try to push it, but theres alot more force when the weight of the car is being pushed through a corner. Could be as simple as a collapsed strut rod bushing but youd probably see that, well the rearward bushings are a little harder to see though.

 

I have looked at the strut rod bushings. Replaced them not all that long ago so I don't think they'd be collapsed, but the lower control arm moving is definitely something I'm considering. It's one of the first things that occurred to me, I just can't get it to move by hand and I can't see anything that would allow it to move. Got to be something though... I guess the only things that would even permit the LCA to move would be the strut rod or the mounting point. Got to be one of those two things causing this unless it's a tower or loose upper arm, right?

 

I, too, feel that it is something related to the strut rods.

Also, I had a problem a while back with the actual bolt that the LCA cam uses ... both had notches worn into them. The alignment shop figured that the car was bent and wouldn't align it. Replaced the bolts and it aligned perfect. You could not see this wear without removing the bolts.

 

Another thing occurred to me ... with one car in the past I smacked a curb. This lead to a bent LCA ... actually ripped, and only holding on by two thin pieces. The car could be driven very slowly to limp home, and if pushed, it would bend worse and drive horribly. Back it up a bit, it straightened back out and you could limp along again.

 

Trailer it up to IN, i have a low ride creeper and am just crazy enough to ride under it, if we cant find it that way, it must the roads in TN.

No really any updates on this ?

 

No updates yet. I'm out of town all week, hopefully will have a chance to get back into it next weekend...

 

This is still ongoing, haven't touched it yet. Just haven't had time. I'm off work for two weeks starting next weekend though, so I should be able to get the Maverick back on the road...

Here's a possible clue: First of all the car is lowered, not sure if I mentioned that. But I noticed on the passenger side, one of the springs has rotated a bit and come out of its pocket. This could be the culprit, yeah? What do y'all think?

I may just buy a new set of springs and quit all this damn dumpster diving I keep doing... It's fun but it always keeps me guessing.

Now, if I do get new springs... Should I get ones listed for a Maverick or Mustang? And which ones? Here's my thought: I have a 351w and AC, so my front end is probably heavier than any stock Maverick. BUT, if I cut coils, which I will, the spring will get stiffer, right? So that might put a stock spring right in line when where it should be... Then again, I want a stiff ride. I want cornering, comfort comes second. So maybe I should get the heavier Mustang springs. But will they be overkill once I cut them?

 

When I still had my stock front end with the Cleveland installed in my 70, I called my local Mom & Pops auto parts store for coil springs. They went through the books and we ordered a set for a 77 4 door V8 with AC. I couldn't find a heavier stock spring application than that.

In my early days of stock car racing, before we were able to simply buy rated racing coils, we always worked with cut down springs and the rates would get heavier when you would cut off a coil

 

I'm partial to a soft spring with adjustable shocks and a heavier sway bar but again, with the 351 and the a/c a heavier spring may be necessary....Does cutting a coil increase the spring rate?