Name that messed-up front end component!

Yep. Now I just wonder where my starting point should be. Mustang springs are the same, just have more options. Same deal with Granada springs. Just want to make sure I don't get a spring that's too light and makes the car unwieldy or prone to bottoming out, yet at the same time I don't want the springs so heavy that it rides like a dump truck... The fact that I'm cutting them just complicates it.

 

I cut one coil off a new set of Moog 8304 springs ('77 302 w/AC springs) and it didn't ride THAT much different than it did without cutting the coil. Cutting the coil was nothing to write home about it...but the ride with new springs were. If I had to do it over agian I'd will try the Moog 8090. They are 1-1/2" shorter installed height and about 30 lbs more spring rate http://dixiemaverick.com/DMcoilsprings.html

 

Some good reading but bone up your math......

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...cutting-coil-spring-increase-spring-rate.html

 

It's interesting that, according to the chart, those are some of the heavier springs used on Mavericks, yet the 170 and 200 cars are the ones that got them. Wonder why.

 

i agree with this philosophy. really good adjustable shocks can give you best of both worlds. you can really create different ride comfort profiles for different driving requirements. Mashori's car has 2 way adjustable shocks all the way around and his car with them set on tight is as stiff as a board. when they are softened up, it will transfer the weight for drag race just fine. they are expensive but do allow you to really get the feel that you want out of the car.

 

The 6cyl weighs about 385 lbs, the V8 weighs around 460 lbs plus the V8's weight will not be sitting directly on the front suspension like the 6 cyl does. The V8 sits farther back in the engine bay and the weight will be shifted slightly more to the center of the car. Take a V8 and add aftermarket exhaust and intake and you will lose the 75 lbs and the 6 cylinder will weigh the same, if not more than the V8. The reason why people think that 6 cyl springs are softer than V8 springs is because 6 cyl wear out faster because of the weight is more on the front suspension than V8 springs. A stock V8 car is heavier at the rear than a 6 cyl car and will have heavier springs in the rear. Also note big bumper cars got heavier springs to carry the extra weight...same as A/C cars compared to non A/C cars.

 

That makes sense. So maybe my front end isn't as heavy relative to some other cars as I had assumed. There is the 351w, but it does have an aluminum intake and headers. Stock type AC, but an aluminum compressor. Small bumpers...

 

Sir, I believe you have hit on the ideal spring for my application. :Handshake

I finally, on the last day of a two week vacation, on day three of Damnit I'm Going To Fix The Maverick Today Day, got a chance to work on the car. And it was a productive day. New coil springs are installed.

I expected to be installing them at least twice, cutting them at least once, but it wasn't necessary. Soon as the front end hit the ground the height was close to where I wanted it, and by the time I'd driven it around a few times and got the alignment back in the ballpark they'd settled down to exactly where they should be. Couldn't be happier with the springs. The ride is perfect. Stiff, sporty feel but not bone jarring like I've been used to with the past two sets I've had. I was worried they'd be too soft, but they're not.

Now I just hope I can find an alignment shop that's open tomorrow, understands my car and doesn't want a stupid amount of money like the last place I went... ($100 for a "four wheel alignment." Uh-huh. Just what did you adjust on my leaf-sprung solid axle rear end, smart guy?)

 

Was anything else loose or damaged or was it simply the spring jumping around out of the pocket?

 

a 4 wheel alignment accounts for where the rear end points. so if the rear end is not perfectly square in the car, they will compensate the front toe adjustment so the steering wheel will be centered.
still thats a crazy high price.

 

Well I go it aligned today using the specs from this post. What a change! It's never driven so well. I'll bet every other time it's been aligned it's been done with stock '71 specs. Little pizza cutter bias-ply tires, manual steering, etc... I think the caster in particular made a dramatic difference. I've always had to work just a little more than I think I should to keep the car straight, and the wheel never did return to center very well when I let go after a turn. Always had to help it along. Not anymore. It feels like I think it should, and the new coils just complete the whole new experience I'm getting when I drive my car.

I guess I need to jam my foot up the carb and start slinging it violently around some corners to be sure the problem is completely gone. For science, of course.

 

Yep we made up our own specs on my car and they are pretty damn close to those. Our front end guy is a real good friend of mine and we help each other a lot. We used them as a base line and it drove so well I never changed them. He accounted for the now radial tires and added some more Caster. Huge difference. Caster is the key to everyday type driving. Even with manual steering its still no probs to park.

Chrysler made a huge change to Caster on the LX rear drive cars which is what actually made me play with my old Mavs caster. The LX cars are so different with the new control arms(relocated ball joints) that if i owned one I would swap them out just as an upgrade.

 

So I just thought of this... I did notice when I had everything apart that my bump stops are gone. Something to worry about on these cars?

 

I assume you mean the jounce bumpers? Yep important on all cars that came with them. Stops coil damage etc.

 

The more I think about it, those bump stops may have been the problem. (And still could be until I replace them.)