how often do you have to adjust valve lash with the mechanical roller. not check but actually have to adjust it? im also wondeing what stall speeds people with 10 sec car that streed drive are using? i talked to huges converters and got mine from them but i feel that because i said it would be street driven they recomended one that is beter for the street than the track. i have a 2500rpm stall.
I only have to actually adjust my valves about 3 times a season. But I check them after EVERY race. 2500 for stall speed would'nt work on my car, but that does'nt mean it won't work for yours. ALL engines are different!
Yeah I also have a 2500 rpm converter, it might work. I also have a hydralic roller cam right now, but Either one of those can be changed once the car is running.
As long as they flow well down low you should be fine. You will just have to run less compression to run pump gas.
Speed is just a question of money, how fast can you afford to go? My 77 Mav ran a respectable 11:44 @ 133 at Gainesville, and I know it would've gone much faster (with tuning). I had $9K (and alot of blood and sweat) in the whole car. Slicks would have made it much easier to dip into the 10's. Not a whole lot I could do with wore out drag radials. I have a really good friend (John) in Gainesville that was deep in the 10's and grazing the 9's with a Mex 302 .040" over. Steel crank and rods (along with brass balls) got his Maverick flying. Heavily ported heads and some huge headers through 3" mufflers helped the breathing. If I remember correctly, we put 2.02/1.65 valves in those heads. Roller cam was in the .600" lift range and a virtually unstreetable 300/308 advertised duration cam. 5000 (flashed to 4800) stall convertor and an Art Carr C-4 to help forward motion. 9" rear out back with ladder bar (non tubbed) rear suspension. The car practically left on the bumper at the track, and he managed to drive it home every night. -Mike