I only have a single electric fan set up to pull right now. It heats up faster while cruising at 45-50 mph than it does when the rpm's are lower, such as 30 mph. It also does not heat up as fast while idling in park. Do you think I should put the fan on the front in addition to the mechanical fan?
When the car is going 50 mph, there should be enough air coming in through the grille that you could just about get away with no fan at all. Fans really make up for when the car isn't moving very fast. I don't think lack of fan is the problem here.
93 Taurus 3.8 Fan & Shroud For Maverick & Comet this will take care of it if it's a...Fan problem.... ...:Handshake...
I agree - this doesn't sound like a fan problem. It sounds like a flow problem. If your radiator is empty and your pour water into the filler neck, how quickly does it drain? It's should drain almost as quickly as you pour it.
Actually, I do not have the PCV system hooked up because the fittings for the hose are different diameters on the carb and valve cover.
That's why it's smoking ... you needt to get it working ... or you engine internals will get real dirty reall fast ..
Not only will the engine get dirty but the rings will wear faster. The PCV system places a vacuum on the crankcase side. That keeps the rings in the bottom of their grooves. That keeps them aligned the same way relative to the cylinder walls all the time.
Sorry to bring back this old thread, but it is still overheating. I a going to give as much info as I can. It has a new 2-Core Jeg's aluminum radiator, new stock replacement water pump from Advance Auto, a single 16" electric fan, brand new hi-flow 180 t-stat, good hoses w/ spring, and I made sure I installed the head gaskets correctly when I put them on. The one thing that does bother me is if the fan is powerful enough to run by itself, and it doesn't always run. It is like it has a loose connection somewhere. And it runs hot no matter what, I can hardly get 5 mile down the road before it is up to 200 degrees. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to be thorough.
Oh, and I also purged the system of air bubbles by running it with the cap off and the heater on full blast today.
Possible faulty T-stat or your water pump produces insufficient flow for the radiator to do its job.Big tube aluminim radiators sometimes(depending on application)will require a higher flow rate waterpump.other possibility is blockage in the engine block not allowing coolant to flow where it needs too.Have you noticed any coolant loss?? If so you may have a bad head gasket(I know they are new)At highway speeds you should be running cooler than 200 deg.180/190 is normal.Be sure your cooling fan is working when it should and is pulling air if its mounted behind the rad and pushing if mounted in front or it.If you have it mounted in front try mounting it behind the rad,sometimes the fan depending on style can impede air flow through the rad.good luck.
I've made sure the fan is going in the right direction, the pump is for a 1976 F150 w/ 302(donor motor), I am going to try a different t-stat tomorrow probably, and there shouldn't be any blockage because we had the block tanked but I guess that is not guaranteed. I really hope it is not the head gaskets, but it is kinda lookin that way.
Are you loosing coolant??? if not then the head gaskets may not be at fault.Dont condemn the gaskets untill you can prove or disprove their failure.Besides if you had an internal coolant leak you would have coolant in the oil or visa versa.Or have it coming out the tail pipe.Are you useing a new radiator cap??? if so how many psi is it rated for.A bad cap will keep the cooling system from pressurizing causing the coolant to boil at 212 deg F instead of at a higher temp it will also make the car run hotter.
The cap is a newer 16 lb cap. I am not sure if I am losing coolant, I will check tomorrow. But there is no smoke coming from my exhaust and my oil looks good.
