It does appear to be frayed. How am i supposed to test the wire right there? Won't I have to find where it ends to test it?
The first picture showed one directly behind the clutch pedal. The one you just posted is a better option. Where is the thread on how to do it just so I know?
I have no idea what that article is talking about in the part about taking off the orange plug on the firewall. There's 1 bolt, a spring and a nut and that's it. It won't come off by pulling.
Test it with a test light. The end should be about 6"-9" from the beginning. You will see it when you look for it.
It's possible to still get continuity testing with a multimeter. The test light will pull a volt or two to light up. A test light only cost $5-$10 and are worth their weight in gold when chasing electrical problems. A bad fusible link should be noticeable if it is damaged.
Forgive my terminology but I just dont think the fuse box is plugged in correctly to the engine bay side. He said he had it hanging loose to work on it. He also stated it didnt feel right putting it back. Mine came loose 20+ years ago and everything died. I think its as simple as that. JMO
The orange box they mentiond should be connected to the inside of ur fusebox....it is what connects the box to the firewall i recently jus had a problem with power when i disconnected my box from the firewall. To remove you have to push n the bolt nd remove the clip from the bolt, carefully, it should then slide off be careful not to pull newires and make sure to bolt the connectiin bak 2 the firewall r yu wnt get ne power ....also the bolt should fit snug with the whole box assembled it shoul really only have enough extra space for the spring @ the top if this helps suggest converting 2 Atc type a relocate 2 kik panel since ur there
I am only able to test voltage at the terminal. It does not appear to end 6-9 inches from there like you mentioned. It is wrapped in with the smaller red wires and goes through the radiator support. although there is a bulge in the tape right where another unrelated connector is so I'm wondering if this is something I can just disconnect to test? yes. I'm trying to see if it is now. what clip? there's 1 bolt on mine that goes through the outer piece that holds the fuses and it goes to the orange part and that's it. please help me see what I am missing here.
after deciding even though I've never tested a fusible link, I went ahead and cut the wrapping. it doesn't appear to be burnt or melted. there's a small hole in the 2nd fusible link in that wire you guys told me to check. I stuck the multimeter needle in there and tested 0 volts. Am I doing it right? the fusebox plug is very tight by the way don. just the fuse holder is off. I still can't figure out how that separates.
There is a small retainer clip on the bottom of the bolt, with the fuse box in hand push the top of the bolt all the way in Hold that. While holding turn to the bottom of the bolt there should be a recess in the bout with a small 3/4 circle clip embedded *may not be correct 4 all mavs as mine is a 75 nd the oly one i have experience on* as far as ur no power issue i was suggesting that yu might not have the fuse box bak in correctly nd wasbdescribing the whole assembly so yu know what ur look'n @
