As mentioned early in this thread, power distribution originates at the battery terminal on the solenoid and is routed to the fuse box connector into the vehicle... Anytime there is no power condition, it's time to back up to the source and start working forward... Sometimes piercing a wire with a test lamp probe, or even a pin/needle to check for voltage will save you hours of time... Just be sure to tape the wire and or place a dab of RTV over the puncture... A lamp is really the best to use, as often a meter will give a voltage reading through a high resistance(poor) connection fooling you into thinking there is voltage, but with any load it drops to zero... In this case the test lamp is the load, no light = no voltage...
I don't have a test light. I did pierce the wire to make sure there was nothing wrong with the wiring and there isn't. which one of these capacitors would work? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...tor&vehicleIdSearch=15321&searchedFrom=header 1508 doesn't look right.
You guys know if that capacitor is wired into the voltage regulator harness or not? The new ones have a brass end on them.
How come nobody answers this thread?? I am now getting main power to the engine side harness plug, but no power on any of the other wires on it, thus still no lights, ign...
If you have nothing on any YELLOW feed wires in the interior (fuse block, headlight switch and ignition switch), then you need to check the connection at the firewall. The engine side harness feeds through the firewall, so you gotta take it apart and check it out. Not much else to discuss if you have 12V+ up to that point.
I agree w/ the prior post... problem most likely in the fuse block. 1.) Disconnect the battery. 2.) Remove the bolt in the fuse panel under the dash, seperate the the fuse halfs "gently" and see if u have loose wire, or lots of corrosion/rusty terminals. Repair loose/broken wire. Clean corrosion, spray w/ WD40. 3.) Re-assemble halfs, connect battery. Hopefully, if that's the case ur problem will be solved.
guys that plug IS apart. I am testing the terminals on the engine plug and the only terminal on it that I am getting power is the big yellow one. ign switch on or off 0volts. I did fix the wires on the interior side plug already. today I went through the wires more, fixed another rigged wire, and just put on a new ground cable from the engine to the body. same crap.
So this makes no sense to me... The YELLOW wire is the only wire that you are getting power on but it is 0V ignition ON or OFF? The YELLOW wire feeds the ignition switch. So if the YELLOW wire is 0V before the ignition switch, then ofcourse ignition ON or OFF would make no difference.
Check both sides of the YELLOW connection terminals for corrosion and tension (remember, these electrically connect through spring contacts). Just because the terminals are present does not mean that they are making a good connection once the fuse halves are re-assembled. If, when the fuse halves are re-assembled, you do not have 12V+ on the interior side of the fuse block (immediately after the firewall connection), then you have a problem with the firewall connection.
no...I get voltage from it. I said I'm not getting voltage on any of the other terminals. although I realized it doesn't make a difference the ign switch is on or off because the plug is not connected. I already wire wheeled the terminals including that big yellow one.
jumping the relay from the power terminal to S turns the engine over. a new relay does not fix my problem so I will be returning it.
Let me see if I understand this correctly. You are inside the vehicle with the firewall side of the harness plug attached to the car and the interior side disconnected. The battery is attached. You are measuring the yellow wire which you say is the main feed to the ignition switch. You get power from the yellow wire. You are testing all the other prongs and are not getting voltage. Is this correct? Well, to me, this makes sense. The main feed is going to go up to the ignition switch. When on, the switch distributes power to all the other contacts in the vehicle. This power comes from the interior side of the harness and goes through the fuse box and plugs to either the engine or body harness. Measuring the other pins on the unconnected firewall side should not get you power because they are getting their power from the interior side of the plug.
that's basically what I had in mind so thanks for clearing that up. however, what do you think my issue is? the 2 halves are bolted together so I don't understand and like I said if I jump the solenoid it turns over the engine. no power on any of the other terminals otherwise. i also just tested the power to the fuse box inside and of course 0v but just wanted to clarify it for you.
I'm not sure about this, but you might want to check the headlight switch and it's plug. I remember some cars having the power feed through the light switch to the ignition switch.
i just looked and i have no idea how to take it off and I can't even feel where the wires end. and this is with the ac panel off. headlights and headlight high beam switch worked fine before this.
