OK, This thread has been going on for 2 months now. You have been given all the tools and information that you need to do the job and figure out the problem. You are still resisting some of the advice that has been given to you. I have a question................ Are you using a TEST LIGHT to check for voltage starting at the battery and before and after every connection in route to the fuse box? A test light is an essential tool you need to have to test this electrical system. It is not advised or nice to have, it is a must. There is a big difference between checking for voltage and Amps. A wire can carry voltage but not have the ability to transmit Amps. Just like I do not know how many times people have come to me and said they do not know why their car will not start because the battery has 12 volts. Well the answer is simple, it does not have enough Amps to start the car. You must use a test light on our cars. Start at the battery and check to see if the light lights up, then move to the connector hoop on the fusible link, then check on the other side of the fusible link, then check where the power wire goes into the bulkhead connector, then check the other side of the bulkhead connector where it exits. When you find a place where the light does not light up then you have found the location of the problem. It doesn't matter how well you think the connection is, check it on both sides, you will find the problem. Good luck on the search.
I'm not resisting anything if you follow the thread. I have the battery hooked up to a battery charger to make sure I have enough. over 15v is plenty. 1. If i didn't, I would STILL get current in the car 2. I said if I jump the solenoid, the engine turns over. I am going to take a look at the plug to see is a pin is pushed out. Can you tell me where a fusible link is on the INSIDE? Because I'm sure if a fusible link was blown on the engine side, I would not be getting voltage.
I would think this is exactly what you need... with a test light you may have enough to light the light but not enough to engage the starter solenoid...
The female side of the terminals can spread as well as push out when they engage the pins. Fordmaster169 is spot on by pressing the use of a test light since even a single strand or even water will allow enough voltage bleed through to indicate a reading on an open circuit. Don't buy a low current test light either. Get the cheap single filament bulb type test light. The test light forces the flow of current to light the bulb inside inducing a load on the circuit. I even go a step further in some cases and use a socket with an 1156 bulb to put more of a load on it. The big yellow wire in the plug is the circuit and terminal you're most concerned with.
AFAIK there is no fuse link on the inside, power feeds through the firewall connector directly to the light & ign sw as well as the fuse panel, if none of these have voltage the problem is with or at least near the firewall connector... BTW get a test light, as long as it lights approx same as when connected across the battery, actual voltage is unimportant... If it lights dimly or not at all then it's time to explore the circuit in more depth... The mention of a 1156 bulb is a good idea though 99% of the time a 1895 or 1891 with wires soldered to it will tell you all that's necessary... If you have a small wedge base socket with leads a 194, 168, 912 etc can be used... The 912 would be similar to using a 1156 and be smaller as well...
ill hammer on this also. get a test light. as said a multimeter can show full voltage on a wire that has a high resistance in it. what happens is the multimeter pulls very little current so full voltage can get through the resistance. a test light pulls a fair amount of current so the resistance wont let enough current go through to light up the test light. while the test light is a simple device it can give lots of info for instance put across the battery posts and it lights up really bright,then put it on a hot fuse in the fuse panel and grounded to the dash and its dim. you now will know you have voltage but a big drop due to resistance. you can isolate the drop by moving the test light back through the circuit. also move the ground between the battery and the body and the motor to see the condition of the grounds. a test light is a lot faster than a multimeter to track down a power supply problem. so get a test light. everybody has offered help but you come across as resisting the help by questioning the need for a test light. that is why you are now getting these insistent reply's. we are all looking forward to you finding the problem and fixing it. we want to hear what the problem was. good luck
i'm only questioning it because I don't understand. now that I understand it (i think) i am going to buy one this week. i actually have a test light screwdriver, but no attachment pins. will this work? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...tester-equus_25980120-p?searchTerm=test+light I can't tell if I can change out the bulbs like you guys are talking about, but it says it shows me grounds which is cool.
No, that is a LED test light. You need one with a filament bulb in it, it will draw more Amps than the one you have. The one you have is fine for some things but not for what you are doing. Test lights are cheep, just get a cheep one with a filament bulb in it.
i know but you want me to get a specific one. fordmaster this is the cheapest one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...s_25988993-p?searchTerm=test+light#fragment-1 it doesn't specify the bulb but it's obviously different. autozone's cheapest one is the one I posted above.
You can make a 12V test light. Do you have an old 194 socket and bulb laying around? Butt connector some long leads on, add an alligator clip to one of them, then crimp a small finish nail on the other lead. Done.
