No actually both I believe...because after adding 4 qts. It reads full...no water shows on dipstick but the water would be at the bottom...right. So I'm leaning towards not sealing the heads and water getting in thru lifter valley...sounds right.
Don't believe the heads cracked because it was fine before..the only thing changed was the manifold was r/r..so I feel like I messed that up.
Ok so assuming its from the manifold through the lifter valley. After changing the gaskets..would draining/running/and refilling a couple of times clean everything out we'll enough...or would you suggest something else?
Wait just thought of this...if the gasket was leaking at the heads ie. into the lifter valley I would have water in oil not oil in water...unless enough has filled up oil pan causing oil to go the other way
if you ran the engine the oil/water would mix and look...milky colored. what you are suggesting would be the way to do it...make sure you change filter each oil change...
...oil in coolant...crack in the trans cooler in the radiator... have you checked to see if you have...water...in transmission? ...(milky pink color)...
very good point. In my experience.. the coolant systems pressure is always going to be higher than the crankcase pressure will ever be once the engine is warmed.. and generally speaking if there's a leak anywhere at the manifold?.. it would be the other way around with water being pushed into the oil.. an external leak.. or intake vacuum sucking the water into the port/s at the very least. It's also not uncommon to see a bit of the coolant and oil get mixed into the seperate systems when the engine is pulled apart and the bigger tell that it's more than that would be if it keeps consistently ocurring after a flush.
Thanks for all your input...will let you know once I change oil..and check tranny fluid. From what I've read I may have two issues..tranny fluid in coolant...and coolant in oil. It had some poor radiator work done before I got to it..then I may have messed up the intake gaskets.
1975 302-No vacuum Ok, so I'm back. Background..got car running after many tries at timing the dizzy. Now it's time time to tune the carb....no matter what I do can't seem to smooth it out. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to port on front of carb...and NO vacuum, so I could not adjust idle screws using that method. In fact I could not find vacuum at all but one carb nipple. Why would this be? I rebuilt the carb..which was pretty straight forward..but what did I do? To clarify no vacuum from nipples at.... 1. front drivers side /by mixture screws 2. Passenger side by choke 3. Rear drivers side above EGR 4. The nipple at rear passenger side going to the choke diaphragm is the only one with vacuum!! Could you also tell me which are manifold vacuum and ported vacuum?
1975 302-No vacuum part 2 I also attempted to replace all factory emission junk but gave up. Now I want to only hook up just what is needed...removing the spaghetti factory. I have looked at so many different vacuum diagrams that I'm dizzy and quite honestly confused...oh wait I dizzy because I've been breathing unburned fuel! Parts I have to hook vacuum lines to...... EGR...new 2 nipples on advance on dizzy 3 port PVS on thermo housing I don't want a performance car as I drive a Mustang GT/CS...just want this to run decent for the occasional Sunday cruise
Have fun. The 1975 Mavericks are hard to comprehend. The first year for electronic ignition, and the joke of emission control junk. Throw away all of the improvements, and revert to 1974 specs. Clean our the catalytic converter if so equipped. Run one tube from the carb to the distributer. Run a tube from the pcv valve to the carb air cleaner, and an air breathing oil filler cap. You will have a cleaner looking and better running engine. As for the oil in the coolant: Use a radiator test pump, and pump it up 16/18 lbs of pressure and see if if the radiator will hold the pressure. Also see if you are getting water into the transmission. Then you will know if the trouble is someplace else. My bet is on the cooler tank is bad
Ok got that...but I have 2 nipples on the distributor? Which one? Block the other? The EGR is new...should I get a non EGR plate or can I just block the nipple? Thank you but I believe I have solved the oil/water/coolant mix...just a combo of tear down and old rusty coolant. You say 74 specs? I like diagrams! Should I get rid of all the PVS switches and such..right!
