did you clean the old oil that had leaked all over the botom of your motor and bell housing off? if not then you may be seeing that stuff coming off still.
If you run your fingers on the back edge see if its wet with oil, this will let you know. I always use permatex on the ends front an rear. Always here to help. Jim
I cleaned the oil on the bottom of the bellhousing and sprayed down the edges of the cylinder heads. I still smell new oil burning on the exhaust so I'm guessing oil is still getting onto the headers somehow.
yea I'll do that with the mirror. I didn't really feel any oil touching it with my hands so let's see what it could be.
if we convert your car to electric there will be no motor oil to leak. you will also have no coolant leaking, gas vapor lock, broken lifter, and smelly exhaust problems!!!
It could still be the valve cover gaskets leaking. I battled this too with mine, especially the drivers side rear. Between that and the missing baffles in the 83 GT valve covers, It was a mess. I ended up buying a set of 1" valve cover spacers and using those between the covers and the heads. I didn't use a gasket between the spacers and heads, but used Permatex Ultra Blue RTV. Made a set of studs, bolted the spacers down and let the RTV set for a day, then installed the covers with Felpro corks with the anticrush rings in the bolt holes. The studs I made from threaded rod are long enough to thread into the head, and extend through the spacers, gasket and covers, retained with the Ford Racing chrome nuts. Zero leaks now.
They also make a dye that you can add to your oil and then use a black light to see where leak is at. Your problem may be that your pcv system is not doing an adequate job for the performance of you engine. Do you notice the leak more after spirited driving ? Has your oil dipstick been pushed up out of the tube a little. I fought with the same leaking issue and tried everything= glueing gaskets,different gaskets,different valve covers,studs. I suspected that it was a blow by problem so I did compression tests, leak down test and both had very good results. Since my car sees more racing action than street action leak was there all the time, but when I did drive the car on the street and keeping my foot out of it leak was minimal. I ended up installing a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump and all the problems went away plus I gained some horsepower. Not a cheap fix by any means but gave me the results I needed. Some people have gone to adding more breathers to their valve covers with good results. I am not saying this is what you need to do just trying to help from what I have experienced :Handshake
I know what you are trying to do! you just want me to go electric so you can have my oil leaking engine and AWESOME radiator/eletric fan setup that never gives me trouble all to yourself. I'm wise to your conniving ways my friend.
Actually it's common for my dipstick to be pushed out, I never thought anything of it. I haven't paid attention as to when the oil leak is worse. Ever since I've had this engine I've had a lead foot. But you know, I really didn't have much of an oil leak before I took the engine apart before the race.
the gz vacuum pump is a good option. the problem is fiting it into the car. i tryed to fit one into the smog pump location on a vortec supercharged car befor and it doesnt fit. the fitting on your new donated valve cover is for a vacuum pump situation. the other option is an exhast evac system that uses exhast flow to creat the vacuum effect. i just dont know if this will work well for daily driving requirements.
The exhaust evac system does not work very good on a street car due to the exhaust being too much restriction. I went that route first and it would only pull at the most 2hg of vacuum. One of these days someone will come up with a good electric vacuum pump. I had one and it would only pull about 2 hg also. Back in the good ol days they used a draft tube. Dipstick tube pushing out is a sure sign of not enough crankcase ventilation
I drove like a granny keeping it below 3K and noticed less oil under the car. So the theory here could be correct. Any idea why I didn't have this problem before I had to dig into the engine?
Just a guess but engine was probably sealed up better before tear down. Intake gasket, valve cover gaskets. Other possibility is rings going bad, possibly a chunk of metal scoring a cylinder wall. I would do a compression test and leakdown test just for my peace of mind. It may be a simple as pcv valve gone bad though. You have more than a stock engine and requires more than stock crankcase ventilation. Perhaps like baddad has said using a spacer under valve covers might help. You need to find out for sure where the leak is, these engines are notorious for having the rear main seal go bad and that is another source for leaking when you have excess crankase pressure. Hopefully when you installed bolts to hold flywheel on you used a sealer on them as they go into the oil pan and can leak there also
