The alternator's not going to be a problem for your fan unless it's wired on all the time. I have a stock type alternator.
I go into Radio Shack and ask for what exactly? What words do I use? I will do this tomorrow since I already have the Taurus fan cut and ready to install.
Enough 10ga wire to hook up your fan, and either a stout toggle switch that can handle plenty of power, (110v lamp switch with screw terminals for instance) or a 12v relay that can handle 50-60 amps. To the relay you can attach any plain old 12v switch, or a fan controller. You'll also want a fuse for this, again 50-60 amps. I use a circuit breaker. You might have to hit the parts store for some of this, as Radio Shack seems to be all about radio controlled cars, cell phones and blank stares these days.
im not understanding the steam. where is it coming from? there shouldnt be any steam in a sealed system. is it coming out the over flow nippile on the radiator? is it just water that is on the outside of the motor due to the defrosting that you did?
the fan when its running draws less than 30 amps. when it intially turns on it has amperage spike that can go as high as 50 amps but that is only for a very short moment. you stock alt should have no prolbem with the fan running all the time.
In theory you're right, but in practice, with that alternator, you want a temp control or at least a way to turn it off. Certain scenarios can conspire to your undoing... For example: Long line at a drive-thru, headlights on, brake lights on, windshield wipers, maybe the radio... You may or may not realize as your lights start to go dim, that you're draining the battery 'cause the alternator can't keep up. You finally pull up to the window, you get your order and start to drive off - son of a b***h! They screwed up your food again. So you park it, go inside, politely rectify the situation and head back out to find your car won't start. Now your food's getting cold while you walk up to all these people in line, getting rained on and looking like a hobo begging for spare change when all you want is for somebody to help out with some jumper cables... 99% of the time it's ok, but that one time out of a hundred makes for a bad night.
The radiator has a crack on the upper tank right in front. It was covered by the rubber seal that my support has across the top. I noticed a leak all day but figured it was the lower hose which is too wide for the mounting tube. I get home and see water leaking out but from my grill. I look and the top of the radiator is wet so I fold back the rubber seal and there it is. A small spout of water about an inch long coming from a 1/16" slit in the tank. I was like WHAAAAT? and it was all THATS RIGHT HOMEBOY and I was like DANG. There is a radiator repair shop literally across the street from my work maybe they can solder it. They quoted me $400 to recore my original... Oddly enough the car didn't overheat on the 20 mile trip home. It loves me, I can tell. It's always something with these cars isn't it? I love them. I hate that I do but I do.
you can buy some stuff called liquid metal in a tube. I used it on a pinhole in my gastank and it stopped leaking. You may be able to use this for a emporary fix
Thats what I thought! At least it's obvious and where I can see it. When it's dry it is invisible which is why I didn't notice it before.
Since it's in a good accessible spot, you might try your hand at soldering it. I did that once and it worked out fine, and I had never soldered anything but electronics before. Got blowtorch?
I totally have a pen torch...and some flux and possibly some solder...Would lead work? Because I have a LOT of bulletheads I've saved.
For soldering, you want the area to be clean ... wire brush or whatever until shiny. It also needs to be dry or it won't heat well ... I would drain the rad because it is already made to disappate heat. I would go and buy some solder for copper pipes and the matching flux too. Clean surface, apply flux, heat it up well enough that the metal melts the solder (not the torch flame... take that out of the way temporarily) ... that is what will draw the solder in to seal it all up. Let it cool thoroughly before refilling, or moving the car, etc.
It is done. Looks boogery(don't let Blugene see it!) and i think it will hold. If not I will clean it and try again. I used copper flux and solder from a plumber buddy and it was dried and wire brushed until it shined. Took a while since I am a complete n00b at welding and soldering but it's okay and hopefully it's done.
