I guarantee you will not be disappointed investing in ORP's roller spring perches......I have purchased suspension components from Pro Motorsport, ORP in the past and have never been happier! keep us posted on how your project goes.......
yeah ill give it a try! you think the difference between the normal roller an the track roller will be big? im tending to the track version if i go for it, but its 150 more... are u racing your car? what did u put in your suspension? sure ill keep u posted, thanks for your interest and help! greatly apreciated!
what i did was the 1" drop, the roller spring perches and the DIY upper control arm kit. kyb gas-a-just shocks, 7/8" sway bar with poly bushings, 620lb 1" drop springs. more than enough for a car that's driven on the autobahn.
sounds like good upgraded german quality suspension! how is it do drive with 620 the springs? im not sure if i should stay with my springs and check how it will perform and maybe afterwards upgrade them if i need to. you know how much lb have the original springs, and how much of it may be left after 40 years? (im not sure if i still have the original springs in or if they got changed...) how much dropped the car with the shelby drop and the 1" drop springs together??
ok, i dont want it to be too hard. i prefer it firm but soft. and going with 1" sway bar which helps with softer springs. so ill stay with the springs i have and look how it feels. i like your stance, but for me a little bit too low. what tire/rim you have on it? im with 225/45/17 so 7.95" outer diameter
When I first purchased my roller spring perches from John (ORP), we talked for quite a bit about what I wanted to do with my 74 Comet. While we got into great detail about the advantages of rollerizing everything, there comes a point as to cost versus how much more performance you are going to notice on the street. While it is well worth the cost to get the roller spring perches, to upgrade to the track roller version for $150 more you probably would not notice as much difference. For racing then I would definitely go for it, but on the street just stay with their normal roller perches and spend the $150 on other components.....such as what I mentioned in earlier post, things like Camber Eccentric Elimination kit to replace the stock round cam versions, which can move during performance usage and thus throw out your alignment. John also suggested going to rollerized lower control arms, which are new MOOG units that he modifies, more than likely, unless yours are relatively new, you probably where going to replace them? Regarding uppers, he suggested just staying with his Standard Upper Control arms which again are new and the shafts have been "blueprinted" (see his description on them) for street/performance usage. Again the rollerized versions great for all out racing, but the extra $400 can be used towards other parts, this was coming right from John! Don't be afraid to actually give him a call, he is more than willing to discuss with you what you require for your particuliar needs. Just like the old saying goes, what's good for racing is not necessarily good for street use, remember track is under ideal road conditions, street rough roads, potholes etc....... Regards to 1" drop uppers, definitely do not remove the reinforce plate (it was designed by Ford engineers for a reason!) but it maybe possible to just cut out sections directly beneath the arm for clearance and then tack weld the reinforce plate to strengthen the OEM spot welds. I thought about this back in the 80's, but at the time removing 1 1/2 coils from my 620 springs was enough for what I wanted....... With the exception of 1" upper drop, I have cut down 620 coils, blueprinted Std Uppers from ORP along with their roller spring perches and lower control arms. Eccentric kit, modified 65/66 original Shelby Export brace and monte carlo bars (now there is a member who manufactures for Mav/Comet) but back in the 80's there was zip and one had to get inventive and use what was available....modified 15/16" sway bar from 67 Shelby and of course fully adjustable KONI's. The rears, dearched leaf springs and added 2 leaves for 5 1/2 rated at 220lbs/in., this was taken from Boss 302 Chassis/Suspension Modification book, Quickor 3/4" sway bar and again fully adjustable KONI's. While I only drive on the street during the summer, I do take it to the local track for the odd weekend road course! I would suggest you stay with something like 500lbs/in front coils and add one extra main leaf to the rears. Softer spring rates and larger front/rear bars, good shocks (if you can afford the KONI's) and of course tires! Unfortunate reality is, our cars are 40years old, metal fatigue definitely comes into place, so take your time and double check that everything is sound, spot welds, shock towers etc......have seen to many people do the wrong things or beef up the engine/suspension on a rust bucket, scary.
I recently rebuilt my front end and I bought my roller perches from here http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/opentracker I also got a the Shelby control arm drop ,we used the moog problem solver upper control arm shaft and everything's good so far.I have KYB gas shocks on the front and I got Nissan Pick-Up KYB gas shocks on the rear with new leafs springs(4 leafs).It handles very good on the street. I used moog coil springs for a non A/C V8 and a coil and a half was cut off the springs
yes, matching front and rear shocks with kyb gas-a-just all around is a good idea. here's the part number for the rear: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=81257
great comment, thats what i was thinking about. what gives you a big step for some money and what will be only little improvement not noticable for the same amount more. so ill go with the normal roller ones... about the lower control arm i didnt think about yet. is it a bolt on upgrade? can you explain what this camber eccentric eleminator kit does? some fotos of it? i surely will not remove the plate completely, just cut/bend/grind or whatever to get the space to make the drop and fix the plate again to have more/less same strength again. the montecarlo bar ill put as well, and the export brace maybe, ive seen someone cut a mustang one in the center to make it fit. maybe ill try that...
here's a link to the eccentric eliminator kit: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=76526 same user sells a mav specific export brace, monte carlo bar, belly bar. all highly recommendable products.
that's what I had to do way back when, was to modify the 65/66 Shelby Mustang export and monte bars to fit the Mav/Com as they where too wide........ Unless you already have export/monte bars from mustang, I would suggest you check http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=76526 for his bars, excellent quality and fit! It again comes down to how much it is worth to you to do your own, cost and timewise. Happy Labour Day longweekend for those of you who gets the time off!
sounds great, thanks for the info about the KYB shocks. ill go for 4517 and 5447!! do you already have the reinforcing plate on your 73??
thanks for the contact of TOPRANGER, i contacted him for the eccentric kit and the export brace. the monte carlo bar we will build ourselves and the belly bar in my place is the support plate of the R&P steering gear. i hope it is at least the same strength as the original bar or more, ill have to double check that.
