Its a shoe arcing machine...It is for exactly what you described.No one does it anymore...drums are cheap enough now a days I guess to buy new.
Yes Earl... their mighty pricey for our cars but, the newer stuff out there now...not so much... but nobody arcs shoes anymore.
M/c pushrod length? Hey y'all, I measured the full height of the brake pedal, ( master cylinder installed ) on a '74 non-power drum/drum application, at 7". Shop manual calls for 7 3/4", could a 3/4" shorter throw cause a problem? I priced adjustable pushrods at $40-50, hate 2 blow the dough 4 a no-go! **************************************** IF IT'S GOT BOOBS OR WHEELS IT'S GONNA COST YA!
if the...Piston...in the M C isn't comming all the way back to the...end of the stroke... it will cause the same problem... I'm up to my ears in brakes myself... ......
Havent arched a shoe since highschool. Pretty sure workers health and safety would lock up your employer and throw away the key if they fired up that machine in this day and age. Think back to arching asbestos shoes. Scary.
LOL...I have probably taken 15 yrs off my life with those noisey/smelly machines.I have probably sucked up enough brake dust to put brakes on two or three 18 wheelers...if not more...Hack...cough...ahemm...Im better now thanks.
how squishy is squishy? I've always had power brakes or abs and this is my first classic car... can this even be described? idk
Brake pedal should be firm at end of travel and NOT sink to the floor slowly.You should have a small amount of travel in the pedal(about 3/4 to 1 inch maximum)Manual brakes will require more effort to stop you as well,so bear that in mind.
hey pete. thnx. That mc I installed seemed to fix the leak. The brakes work, they just don't grab like the ones I'm used to. The pedal is easy to push down and then starts grabbing when I'm most of the way depressed - maybe 2/3 depressed. Just seemed 'different' but don't have anything to base it on.
APPMAVERICK you may want to adjust the auto adjusters a bit so they start to grab before the half way point. they should be loose enough that the shoes dont ride on the drum but they should be engaging sooner than that. also this depends on the system not having air or bad cylinders which could cause you to have to pump it once before it brakes. bad rubber lines can cause the brakes to need to be pumped also if they have a slight leak in them.
What sierra grabber said.You may need to adjust the brakes to eliminate the excessive travel(which is what you seem to have now)But...Adjust the brakes so there is a slight amount of drag on the drums from the shoes.You should be able to turn the drums with little effort but, be able to hear and feel the shoes dragging on the drums a little bit.You did bleed therest of the system after the M/C install right??? If not do so before going any further.Good luck!!!
yea, I bled the the rest of the system. What does a slight amount of drag mean? Does that mean the shoe should be touching when the brake pedal is not depressed?
yes,you should be able to turn the wheel but the shoes should be lightly resisting. if you get it close then go around the block stopping and going every couple feet the auto adjusters should get them fairly balanced to not have any pull towards any one wheel. also when you have the drum off and are doing the brakes make sure your springs are all clamped back tight since the ends get opened up a little when you take them off and make sure your adjuster assembly moves and operates as it can get stiff with heat and corrosion.
