A down flow radiator will never stay full to the top due to expansion of the juice, This is where a overflow jug comes in. When the juice expands and pushes out it has somewhere to go other than the street. Then when the juice inside cools ( and shrinks) it will form a vacuum and pull the juice in the overflow back into the radiator. As far as the cap,( ithink yours is bad) Water boils at 212 degrees fahrenheit. (at sea level) For every positive pound of pressure you put the water under it raises the boiling point 2 degrees. Example 7 psi cap raises the boiling point to 226 degrees.( this is with no antifreeze, which raises the boiling point itself) But now for my opinion, I see no reason to ever run any of my cooling systems over 7 psi because i don't run them anywhere near 226 degrees. So why should i be putting 13-16 psi of pressure on my heater core, Head gaskets, Radiator, Hoses, Etc. Not to mention if it does get to boiling with a 16 psi cap you now have water in the 244 degree range ( can you spell 3rd degree burn). I think the 16 psi caps were more intended to please the EPA than they were for function. ( i have heard the argument about steam pockets also) Although there may be a reason i haven't found to run a high pressure cap, I just haven't found it yet ( i know about nascar just have never had the chance to run one). As always this is just my opinion and others will vary.
Here's a tech article I did about adding one ... http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=45586&highlight=overflow
Pretty sure the standard replacement radiator caps for a Maverick will not allow overflow recovery. Your coolant level should remain 1 inch below the filler when cold and that is full ... even as per the owners manual. It should not be filled up to the filler opening all the time. If you are puking enough fluid that after it cools you are not 1 inch below the filler opening ... then you are having some sort of cooling issue. Mine is 1 inch below and I have never puked fluid ... and it gots hot here in GA ! My temp gauges is generally between 180 and 190 depending on moving or idleing.
For all the crap my car was missing, it did have and over flow tank that looks factory original to me. LOOKS being the key word. was it a option? judging by the slicks that where on my car, im thinking the PO raced it regularly. So that would be a requirement for the track, Right?
thats what is so cool about this site to me, someone comes along and drop there two cents and off we go.
I got a nice ford blue plastic one from summit racing, and I like it alot! Sure is pretty sitting next to my aluminum rad.
I thought fords were supposed to have a plastic bag for the overflow here is one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-6...tZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
At some point, don't even remember where, there was a sharp canister that mounted right next to the rad, and had a bracket, for the old fords. even has a ford engraved overflow cap... about 3" diam and about 1.5ft long, been looking for it ever since... lol! A lot of the older cars at most shows have them, keeps the show car from dumping coolant if there ever is an issue... my mav has only peed once, from overfilling and warming it up... had shut it off and there it went all over the driveway.
At some point, don't even remember where, there was a sharp canister that mounted right next to the rad, and had a bracket, for the old fords. even has a ford engraved overflow cap... about 3" diam and about 1.5ft long, been looking for it ever since... lol! A lot of the older cars at most shows have them, keeps the show car from dumping coolant if there ever is an issue... my mav has only peed once, from overfilling and warming it up... had shut it off and there it went all over the driveway. So Summit racing has nice looking aluim. tubes the way you are describing them, I decided to go with the blue plastic as it was cheaper.