dumb question my mav has 58,000 miles in it, and is looking for a bigger engine, the question is would it be safe to switch over to a synthetic oil, or stay conventional? I hear that it might cause leaking if i do, but i also hear that is just a myth
Its a myth...It wont hurt your engine or seals,gaskets...Formulations have changed drastically in the last 30 yrs...
Valvoline and whatever filter is cheapest LOL Though I use K&N when I can afford 'em (11.99 for a filter YIKES) I hear that Purolator makes a good filter as well.
Yep. Purolator PureOne has the best filtration, at least it did at the time the comparison tests I saw were done. It comes at a price though - it does not flow as well as others, so make sure you've got good strong oil pressure when you use one of those, and I wouldn't be pumping any 20w50 through it.
Engine trouble I finally rebuilt the carburetor and got it running and it runs real rough and wont stay idle. It's a 4.3 Liter 260 V8 in a 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente and when I idle it up for a minute white smoke starts to rise from the passenger side manifold. It's been sitting up for around 10 years or so and when I check the oil, after letting it run a minute, it has small particles of what looks like rust in it. Is the engine screwed, because it does run. If it is then is this a deal? Ad says: This engine was originally a 302 harvested from a 68 Torino. Has been bored .040 over. Crank has been turned .010 / .010 Badger 11:1 compression pistons Crower 300 duration / 500 lift Hydraulic Cam Crane anti-pump lifters Crower dual springs Crower Retainers TRW Keepers Mr. Gasket screw-in Studs & Poly-locks Edlebrock Torker Manifold Holly 780 double pump wi vacuum secondaries Has stock distributor and will throw in an Accel dual point Weiand Valve covers (need caps) Engine has sat for 20+ years but turns over freely. Will also throw-in the engine stand, alternator and drive shaft for early model Mustang $450.00 OBO - Cash only – you must pick it up (literally!)
I just put it in. When I started it today it sounds like a high pitch squeal from combustion area and when I checked the oil it looked like foamy whitish fluid at the full level of the dipstick. Does this mean the block is cracked? crap!
Its been sitting, should go away i believe, at least my motor was like that. I would stick a k&N filter on that motor, to clean it up.
No oil in filter I went to change the oil to replace with better oil and a better filter and when I took the filter off it was bone dry. What 's the deal? Oil pump? It's a 1964 comet with the 4.3 liter 260.
i would put an oil gage on and before putting on the filter fill it with oil to help prime the system then with the engine running the mannual gage should give you some pressure readings.
I run Castrol in all my vehicles. 10w40 in the summer, 10w30 in the winter in the Maverick. I change it about every 5,000 miles. Inside my engine stays spotless.
"the best engine oil" ain't going to help you here....if the engine ran...dry... it needs to be pulled down and checked... ...the oil pump may be locked up...and shaft broken... ......
Thanks, What do you mean pulled down? It ran, totalling each crank, a total of 2 minutes. When you say pulled down do you mean disassembled and checked? I'm gonna replace pump and shaft this weekend. Any suggestionss? Oh yeah, how do you post new threads. Makin their way the only way they know how!
