Timeing Chain Setting???

Discussion in 'Technical' started by halies72, Jan 2, 2007.

  1. halies72

    halies72 Member

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    also every hard componit of this motor was included with the block. all ive spent money on is seals, gaskets, balanceing, stuff like that. The carb. I bought new. I dont have the money to buy new cams or anything like that now, so Im stuck with what i got. Will this work????
     
  2. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Can't imagine why someone would tell you to advance the cam 2* for breakin. Degree the cam so it timed the way the cam manufacturer designed it to be run per the cam card, check piston-to-valve clearance, and if everything checks ok, run it.
     
  3. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    I've never seen 010 pistons...
     
  4. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    i think he ment go .010 back from .040 = .030:huh:



    i thought the smallest oversize was .020:huh:
     
  5. TonyS

    TonyS Member

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    Get the 180 out of there and go with a 160 stat. Put the cam in straight -up. To fully used the ajustible timing chain you need need a lot of dyno time.


    have a good ride
    Tony
     
  6. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    The cam makers set the cam up so when the average guy running matching components puts the cam in with the stock gear set it gets the power curve that it was made to deliver. If you are going to advance or retard from that point you have to make sure that your exhaust valve, port and headers make up for the different timing. With Fords the exhaust side of the heads is on the small side. Cams are engineered to make up for that so you get better power from them. If you look at your cam duration you will probably find that the exhaust side has more duration than the intake. That helps the poorly engineered exhaust side work as well as the intake side. Set it up the way it is engineered or you have to reengineer the valve and port sizing and length to make up for your changes.
     
  7. stangclone

    stangclone Member

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    I agree buy a dregee wheel and set it that way. As far as the 60 over, my 1965 mustang has a 40 over 302 in it and it runs at 200 degrees:mad: all the time!!!!

    I would sugest a aluminum radiator.
     
  8. halies72

    halies72 Member

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    The heads have chevy valves. Which I was told by some of car builders I know will work for what Im doing and make up for the cam. Im running flat top pistons, so I should have clearance. I had every one I know look at that dam cam card and they all told me (without me saying anything) that I should run the cam at 2 advanced. As far as the gears, Im going to run 370 gears. I assume you(pauls)are talking about the differental gears to get my power band. I dont think Im going to need an alluminun radiator. I live in higher elevation with cooler air and from what Im told, I shouldnt have any over heating problems. Im getting kind of confused with all this. It's the first car that Im building and I hope this Comet of mine will be worth it. Every one else I talk to says I should take the car out to the dessert and shoot it but it would be a waste of the 38 cents for the bullet. I think everybody has different opinions on whats the best way to do something. I REALLY REALLY REALLY appretiate all the input that you guys have given me. I dont take anything lightly. Am I doing this right with what I got or am I missing something???
     

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