Towing with a car dolly

I've used that setup on my 91 Ranger 2wd behind my motorhome. It works great and makes it more difficult to steal if you don't know where the cable is hidden. That's a good product for what it's built for but wouldn't use it on a drag car's driveshaft and expect it to hold up.

 

Or, you can just spend 15 minutes under the car with a 1/2 inch wrench, save your 600 bucks, and not have some strange fubar looking thing holding your driveshaft in...

 

Too lazy to go back and read 4 pages worth...

Did anyone mention just taking off the rear of the joint, and tying it up leaving the front inside the transmission?

Yeah, a little anxiety with possibly losing the shaft, but tie it up really good in a couple of places, take :chillpill :chillpill and get on with it...

 

Also, never really got feedback on the possible wear/damage, etc. with tow dollying a spooled vehicle. I don't really want to tow both a car AND a fullsize U-haul trailer, it was quite a bit of weight for the short trip I took (5 hours) and I would HATE to do it on a mountainous trip from Texas to Alaska. The dolly has to weigh 1/4 that of the trailer, maybe even less...

 

Actually, from U-Haul's website...

empty tow dolly is 650lbs, empty trailer is 2000 lbs.

My car weighs about 2600, so the trailer really does almost double the weight...

So, haul 3050 lbs using the dolly, or 4600 lbs with the trailer...which do you think would haul easier and with better gas mileage and accelleration up those mountains with my truck...?

Maybe I should just use the tow dolly with the REAR on the dolly, and front wheels on the ground. I could even put on cheap taller tires on 14" rims to keep the front valence way off the ground.

 

Why pull the drive shaft. Just unhook at the diff and strap it up out of the way and secure. No trans leak then.

The plug should be available from a good trans shop.

 

That's what I asked...