I can't say anthing about the other electric pumps, but I have an old CSR which has been on the motor in Maverick since the late 80's/early 90's and has only been rebuilt once. I have it torn down to replace the O rings and everything inside looks really good, bearings/impeller/brushes(it has 4)...so as far as something going wrong.............my guess is that the electric motor would last longer than a std waterpump...............I have a Milwaukie electric drill that is over 30+ years old and used and abused..........you can hear the bearings but it still performs good enough to drill through 1/4" steel. My old CSR pump has two outlets, one on the left and one on the right....and one of those could be used for the heater...........as for the bypass, you can do the same thing by drilling and tapping into one of the 90degree elbows. If you don't believe me just call Mike at CSR. Oh yes, the new pumps don't have two outlets, so you would have to drill and tap into one of the 90degree elbows.....................pretty simple. One other thing, the pump moves 37GPM and draws 5.5amps............hope that clears up those questions.
If you do not have a valve in your heater hoses, it is in affect, a bypass! You won't have to use the factory bypass! If you do have a valve ( ac ), you will need to have a bypass.
If I'm not mistaken, the 90° elbows you speak of are under water pump feed pressure, not inlet(suction). the bypass and the heater core hoses are to return water to the pump. This is also true, but with a thermostat in place, the flow rate through the heater hose may overpressurize the heater core depending on the pump flow rate. This probably wouldn't be an issue with most electric water pumps but better over engineered than under.:Handshake
Like I said "Theoreticaly" . All loads and charging Happen at the speed of light. The drawback IMHO is voltage drop after AC Is converted to DC. That is why a higher amp alt is always a good Idea when adding another load. My Wifes van is A Wheelchair Accessable unit based on the E250. Then cut up and retrofited with Redundant Steering (100 Percent Power) Brakes, Hydralic Lift, Electric Doors and a whole lot of other goodies. I chose the Biggest Baddest Alt. I could find after I got it back from the chop Shop. So I would recomend an Alt. Upgrade for any Vehicle as soon as you bring it home. That should account for any drain on the system. BTW I supervised the build on the Van. They hate me at VMI in PHX. But I paid cash. PS If anyone has a Handicapped Memeber of thier Family (God Forbid) and you need some help with care Financing or anything Call Me at 1-928-344-1777. Because everyone will rip you off.
I have a Moroso "High Performance" aluminum water pump. The car runs WAY cooler when coupled with my Champion radiator.. Plus its a lot lighter!
John, Lived on the West Coast all of my life, Portland, Stockton, Redding, and now San Jose....................if it is over 65 like today, I'm in shorts and tee shirt. My Model A highboy had no heater........really not needed..........and if I can't drive with the window down I don't drive.............except when driving the truck or riding with my wife in her car. Yes, I guess I'm a fairweather type of person.
I also just noticed you said you blocked the bypass and not the heater core. So you would still have heat in the car. is that right?
John, Yes, but not in the Maverick since it is a race only car it has a heat delete and has since 1978/9. But, I did do this with my ole 65 Mustang Ragtop and 64 Comet; both were pretty wicked street cars back in the 70's...........and before that I just wasn't into Fords............had a very, very wicked 48 Cxxxy Coupe that pulled the front wheels off the ground (on the street) but that was back in the late 60's(picture included/taken at my folks house in 1969)...............................that was in Portland. Part of the reason for doing this was that we used to "Cruise The Gut" on Broadway, The Spec, and Yhaws drive-ins................and with bumper to bumper traffic and the "Very Mild" cams/carbs/shim head gaskets, etc., any more coolant flow helped to avoid the dreaded MD (melt down) and the embarrasment of parking on the side and watching everyone cruise on by!
Ok so if I have this straight, I can use an electric pump, block the bypass on the thermostat housing, and figure out a way to hook up one heater hose to the pump and everything should be good. Right??? So what us the purpose of the bypass hose in the first place?
The only purpose of the bypass (other than allowing coolant to flow in either direction depending on rpm and degree of open of the thermostat) hose offers a partial escape route for coolant to circulate back through the engine while the closed thermostat will not allow it into the radiator. So, yes, but you need to have one side of the heater to a pressure side and the other to drain back..................because the heater core brings water in and then makes a U turn to return it.
Thermostats...........................this is really a deep subject and alot of people say..............."My motor is running too hot so I'll change from a 180 to 160 degree stat"...............what this will allow is the water more time to over heat, a thermostat has nothing to do with overheating and has no other purpose....once fully open.......can only contol the flow of coolant to the radiator..............Ok, now I got that out of my system. To answer you question, in all of my race cars I have never run a thermostate, but have used restrictors........................on the street I have only run thermostats, and they have never been the cheap $3.95 type, but the highflow kind like; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-330-160/, not to say I have always run 160, but this is the type I have always used....IMHO
