water pump choice???

Maverick Man · Apr 17, 2012

olerodder said: ↑

I certainly don't want anyone to feel like I am being Mr. Know-it-All or condisending, because as everyone can plainly see...........I built a motor and expected close to 700HP and only got 640HP............Ok, that's only 10% error.........but in building motors that's HUGE!
Anyway, when looking at a radiator just remember that car radiators do not radiate anything, they work from convection......hot fluid coming in from the top hose(s) and runs down the tubes/fins toward the bottom and as it travels down it is cooled by air coming through the fins/tubes. One very important thing to remember is that the higher the fin to inch ratio the better the radiator is going to cool.............assuming you get air across the fins. So, when you say you've got a 2 row radiator with 1" cores....how many fins per inch.......how many per square inch......if it's less than 35/40 per square inch............this could be one of your issues.
Now, about the transmission oil lines going into the bottom of the radiator, remember what I said above..........the water trickles/runs down and is hot on top and is supposed to get cooler as it reaches the bottom of the radiator..................well...........if your trans fluid is at 190+ what do you think that is going to do to the water trying to be cooled as it leaves the bottom of the radiator going back into the block....................it is certainly not going to help it......................would be my opinion. And I would hesitate another guess is that your transmission is not stock...........right or wrong? Do you have a aluminum finned deep sump pan on your trans???
Ok, I didn't mean to pick on you......I hope you understand that. If you were to take the transmission lines and route them to a larger (like B&M) seperate cooler with built in fan and plug the bottom of your radiator my guess is that you would lower your temperature...........and will not run as hot in traffic..........where the trans is building up heat....stop and go. I would also suggest you monitor the transmission fluid with a simple gauge. Remember...........anything over 200 degrees starts breaking down the trans oil and certainly doesn't do any good for your trans in the long run.....
So, given our radiators are pretty small by todays standards, I assume you have an electric fan that can do at least 2500cfm.............is it manually switched or is it thermostat controlled? And, also, do you have a shroud around the radiator/fan to pull in the maximum amount of air.
In a blown motor, roots type, remember that the blades are creating friction as the air passes through...............as for your car making peak power at 165 degrees..............don't know your motor so I won't make any comment. When I start up the race car on the trailer/or to go into the staging lanes I always wait for the temp to reach minimum of 160 and the trans to about the same before I move the car.............but again, this is a race car not a street car.
As for your last comment which said, "we are running into water pocket issues". If I read you, you think that without running the bypass that you are going to create water pockets???, not sure what you mean by water pockets. You are obviously running a warm'd over motor (no punn intended)
and depending on what temperature thermostat you have put in it, I would probably change to a "high performance" type like I put in the thread, and when you pull the bypass, go to the one that has the 3/16" holes in them as this will allow any air behind the thermostat to be released back to the radiator like it should.
I hope this helped you in thinking through some of your overheating issues.
I did this with my blown Flathead and they are known for running hot and cracking valve seats in the block........as the motor is not an overhead type.
So, now you have some choices...............and if you want to cruise in 100+ temperatures it really shouldn't be an issue, and you won't have to worry about melting your motor down..................IMHO
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yeah tranny is not the issue with the heat the line DOES NOT run to the radiator it doesn't have provisions for this.

also i have a pusher fan too which i know doesn't help and is my main problem for sure. however but i have no choice there is no room to put a fan the blower belt is in the way. the only thing i can think of is to change to a crossflow which is thinner. as far as fins per inch not sure. but i know this radiator it fine with a N/A car because it was in my other car. given motors are different. the fan is on manual switch, screw the thermostat activated one the thing takes forever to turn on and takes forever to turn off. no thanks.

thermo stat i haven't use anything but a high flow performance thermostat for the last 20+ years i had the car. lol! so yeah not an issue there either.

Bryant · Apr 18, 2012

Maverick Man said: ↑

ok never Bryant i found it http://www.meziere.com/ps-1110-1078-wp311c.aspx it that the one? that will work right .... because...

i know that late model 5.0 water pumps actually go the other direction for the serpentine belt thus making it flow the correct direction. does that matter on the electric pump? i don't want to think to hard... lol! i don't think it would make a difference right? since it is turing on tis own direction less the belt.
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thats the pump. that one is chrome. its price was considerably higher than what i got it for. i didnt look to see if the other ones are less.

it will work with either direction timing cover so the rotation doesn't matter. they do have one that had a pulley on it so you can rout a serpentine belt on it in the stock fox mustang belt routing.

Maverick Man · Apr 18, 2012

Bryant said: ↑

thats the pump. that one is chrome. its price was considerably higher than what i got it for. i didnt look to see if the other ones are less.

it will work with either direction timing cover so the rotation doesn't matter. they do have one that had a pulley on it so you can rout a serpentine belt on it in the stock fox mustang belt routing.
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ok great!

now come to think of it how do i route my power steering pump belts since it runs off the water pump? lol

i guess this one will be fun with lots of running back and forth to the auto parts store for belts. lol!

i guess i could run it right off the crank... but not sure if the angle of belt come across electric water pump motor. also just don't know if it will be tight enough from the angle the PS pump tightens down. i'd ask to see if anyone has a photo or ideas on a PS set up with a electric water pump but i think most will not.

Bryant · Apr 18, 2012

Maverick Man said: ↑

ok great!

now come to think of it how do i route my power steering pump belts since it runs off the water pump? lol

i guess this one will be fun with lots of running back and forth to the auto parts store for belts. lol!

i guess i could run it right off the crank... but not sure if the angle of belt come across electric water pump motor. also just don't know if it will be tight enough from the angle the PS pump tightens down. i'd ask to see if anyone has a photo or ideas on a PS set up with a electric water pump but i think most will not.
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are you using v-belts or serpentine belts?
i will take a length of rope or wire and wrap it around the pulleys. then i will measure the length. i will then get 3 belts that are in the range. use the one that works and return the others.

i would lower the power steering pump to line up with the crank and not interfere with the water pump. this requires some custom fabrication but nothing to crazy.

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water pump choice???

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water pump choice???

Maverick Man The Original Maverick Man

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