What are your thoughts?

what these guys said and.. check the ignition curve(too much retarded will make them run hot no matter how much money your radiator cost.. hint:.. factory timing curves are absolutely HORRID!.. mainly because they add tons of margin expecting you'll never change the plugs or air filter).. cool the fuel however possible(split rubber fuel line installed over all the metal hardlines with higher emphasis on hotter area protection will reduce pressure creep/which is what causes the fuel levels to rise and spill over into the manifold.

The harsh reality is that these manifolds run HOT by virtue of the head/manifold design.. do ANYTHING and EVERYTHING within your power(that can be afforded) for reduction of heat soak. Highly.. HIGHLY.. recommend a radiant heat isolator between the carb/intake log and the adjacent exhaust manifold. A carb gasket style isolator should be used as well. I also ALWAYS get rid of any EGR/heat crossovers/risers too.. but that's just me gettin' into that last 1% gain.. so YMMV.

If done correctly, the engine will have more consistency and make more AND safer power while also becoming much more octane tolerant in the process. You absolutely cannot EVER make that particular induction system run too cold. This also allows usage of greater ignition lead, primarily in the low throttle ranges, while under load and also promotes improved lean-burn tunability. Win win.

PS. just keep in mind here that the more mod's you do to lower that fuel and overall induction temp.. the greater the optimum tuneup will change from the factory settings. Main jetting will change for sure if you get carried away as badly as I do on these sorts of things.