Will a car peel out better with a stall converter?

I was on the North side of Houston today, but didn't have your number...

Currently has a line lock (see pic below) and peels out just fine, but not so much from a standstill. Tends to grab and jump forward, at least with the 510mm of tire patch on new tires and spool. (those tires ARE measured in mm, aren't they?)

 

i added a 3000 stall on my 4 door and what a difference it made. definately run an external cooler.

 

I already have an external cooler, but I think I might upgrade it to a larger one. I would guess that mine is about 6X8 or maybe 8X10. I bought the middle size of the three offered.

It has worked for me, but I think bigger and cooler is ... cooler!

 

Does it rain much in Texas? It's easy to spin the tires when the road is wet. I once had a Tempo that would do it only in the rain
FFD

 

My first car was a Isuzu (Chevy) LUV pickup, had maybe a 2.4 4-cyl. I couldn't keep it on the ground. It was so light, that if I hit the brakes going through a red light, I would often end up going through the intersection BACKWARDS!!! It would peel out forever, but not because of all the extra power...

 

I'm glad this was ""short and simple question""

Talk to the manufactures on this an tell them what you want. My 78 had a 2800 stall for the 400 in it,, would smoke tire all day long! 400 dyno ed flywheel horse. I had to pull my race car trailer with it,, I hated it, rev up then take off. Put a stock one in, lost some of tire smoke but pulls much better!

Just getting a feel on you an usage, I doubt you want over 3,000 stall. Talk to Tech line

 

WHO wants to spin??? Ive worked on mine for years to keep it from spinning.

 

I have noticed that ALL my questions fail to have short answers...

I was thinking of just 2500-2800, maybe 3000 max, but probably not that high.

99.8% of my driving is just cruising, with 1-2 trips to the 1/8th track a year, not racing, but just to see what my improvements are netting me.

BUT!!! I have very little torque down at 1800 rpm, and I can only get a good peel-out using either brakes or line lock to get the rpms up, unless I hit the white line at the intersection which helps it break free, or if the roads are wet (I don't drive on wet roads unless I am out and get stuck in it. It never had traction even with the stock motor, open diff, etc.)

 

I concur with all the above. Fun thing also is when you punch it while moving less than 20 mph or so. The tach flies up to the flash and BAM the torque hits the rear tires hard and breaks them loose. I never had a stall until this new engine and can't believe what I had been missing. (the 4.11s don't hurt either!)

 

rear gears, the correct converter and a good driver will make or break any car. Gears should be #1 mod on the list. #2 should be a converter that is matched to the engine's power characteristics.

Think of a high stall converter like a slipping go-kart clutch. It "slips" gradually less as the RPM climbs until you reach a point where the engine doesn't make enough torque to make the converter "slip" any more. That is your stall speed, in a nutshell. Everyone knows what it's like to have an old 5 HP briggs go-kart with a mismatched "maxtorque" clutch. They usually grab at about 1800-2000 RPM. Remember how doggy they are at low speed until it gets going? Now change the spring in the clutch to a 2500-2800 RPM stall speed spring (you can buy different springs for them) and it really wakes 'em up.

Converter is the same way. Will you be able to peel more? If you have a stock stall speed converter now and a modded engine (I have been reading some of your posts so I know your motor ain't exactly stock) then yes. Call a converter guy and tell them everything. A converter is only as good as the amount and accuracy of information you give him. You will need car weight, tire size, rear gear ratio, engine size, compression, cam specs, intake, carb, exhaust type....pretty much everything about the car. Ideally you'd want a dyno sheet which would tell you exactly where your motor starts making GOOD power, then you could get it spot on. If you just say hey, I want a 3000 stall speed converter, you will most likely get a 3000 RPM stall speed or real close. But there is MORE to a converter than stall speed alone If that is all you want, most converter guys can open up a stocker and bend the fins to achieve close to 3000 RPM....but it will burn transmission fluid, then take out the transmission due to heat...and performance will be piss poor. Remember, there's also a stator in there and a sprag (sometimes). The stator can be had in many different configurations and only a good converter builder knows which ones are best for you. It all works together. Converter diameter, fin angle, stator design and fluid type. No different than an engine.

Also by design, a torque converter multiplies torque. Stators and fin angle changes can increase this multiplication ratio, sometimes up to 3.5:1. That means if you put 100 lb-ft into the converter (from the engine) you would theoretically get 350 lb-ft out of the converter. Most stock converters are old school, designed to get the car rolling initially, then have just a little bit of slippage to keep RPM down, which increases fuel economy. An aftermarket converter generally has a much higher torque multiplication...so yes, with a good converter, boiling rubber should be gravy

 

Sounds like the suggestion is to put it on a dyno first, and determine the stall to my style 2nd?

Just the excuse I needed to put it on the dyno...

 

i had a 2500 stall in mine, and it locked up on launch every single time

 

dyno first? not sure.. if your convertor isnt working correctly wouldnt you get an inaccurate read on the dyno??

 

wouldnt that make it peel out whenever u give it acceleration from a stop ?

 

That is what I am hoping for...being able to punch it and bust them loose.

A slow acceleration will not break them loose, it would act like any other auto and accelerate slowly, but there would be more slippage inside the trans, making things run hotter.