Great, thanks. Now let me revise my estimate, but I would figure closer to 400HP or maybe a smidge over. Do you have stock rods or aftermarket and what kind of oil pan? One thing I might suggest although I know you said this is mostly a street car is a main bearing girdle, if nothing more than piece of mind. Also, I would think that 3.5's would be a better match to the drivetrain than the 3.0's. Yes, you won't be able to cruise at 80+ without getting above 3grand, but it will certainly make the car more fun to drive and maybe scare the pants off some Chevy guys. I have a friend with a 1940 Ford with a motor pretty much the same as yours except for factory SBF tripower. He started out with 3.0's and after about 6 months he ditched them for some 3.5's...........it really did a wake up job and he now turns in the 13's with a pretty heavy old Ford. IMHO
Rods and crank are stock, for the oil pan i used a stock style/size canton aluminum pan( mostly because i didnt want to spend 300 bucks to find out it wont fit the Maverick. I had thought about a main girdle and will use one when I eventually do a stroker. I was going to go with an Eagle forged 347 with H beams and rebuild me 74 302 but this guy came to me with a short block and the intake, dist, rockers, pushrods, and lifter for 1100. All because he decided to put a 502 chevy in his 85 mustang!?!?! We will see about the gears really Im on the hunt for a 9inch with trac-loc (I have an open 8 now). So I may end up with a differnent ratio if I get w complete setup. Thanks again
Hi I don`t think the carb is too small.Just check too see if you need a larger one after tuning.I think you will make more than 340 hp,but not 470.Hey if its what you have then use it.All I am saying is that from what I have done myself I have found some other cams seem to work better.By that I mean they have quicker throttle response,better acceleration,more top end.But the thing is with big boost or big no2 the letter cams will start to blow exhaust gaskets then intake gaskets.But some guys have run into the 9s with a stock cam and huge blowers.Remember its your car and your money so do what you want and you can always change things if your not happy.GOOD LUCK
I completely agree, the heads were holding the cam back I think (and to some extent the exhaust). However my setup was very similar to the original poster's and that's why I mentioned he might not like the X cam. I got a great deal on the X that's why I tried it, I had a concern it might be too big for my setup, but gave it a shot anyway.
Thats why I stuck with a free 670 just in case it is just right. We will see what happens this spring. There is a drag strip and a dyno shop with in 20 minutes of here so. I will have all the documentation as well as a ton photos of the install in my profile. Thanks
Those lifters are going to be the limiting factor on the topend. I used these with a B303 and it wouldn't rev past 6000 withou floating the lifters. When I swapped to the Canfeild heads, I replaced the lifters with Crane's O.E style replacements, rev limit went up to 7+ grand. The 3.00's might be OK on the freeway, but more'n likely it'll get better mileage at highway speeds with 3.50's, due to the rpms being closer to the heads and cam's powercurve. And that's WAY too much fuel pump. Like 100 GPH too much volume.
First, the B cam being a hydraulic roller will not "float the lifters", although you can float the valves. If you have too high valve spring pressure you will cause the hydrualic lifters to "bleed down" at high rpms and the engine will "nose over", and you can float the valves. Again, the B cam has peak torque at 3300rpm and peak hp at 5100rpm. Going past 6000rpm is probably not producing any hp unless you have switched to 1.7 rockers. A couple of things come into play here, if you want to run past 6000rpm I would suggest setting the valve lash past 0 by either 1/2 to 1 full turn and this will put the plunger at the bottom of it's travel which will help restrict the amount of oil it gets on the top end. The other is to restrict the amount of oil getting to the lifters. Of course solid rollers would be my answer. Hydraulic rollers above 6500/7000 are a waste of time...................IMHO
ive got a 94 mustang and have been searching for info on this cam for 4 days straight i bought the car i was told it has a 302 .20 over x cam decked and ported heads dont know what cc mallory distributor 600 old motorcraft 1850 holley carb the person that sold it to me doesnt know exactly where the timing should be.The distributor was loose so i bought a timing light and have not been able to get the car to run right up in the revs it just bogs/misses waiting for a resistor to run stock tach so idk the actualy rpm in which this happens and anyone give me a base advanced timing to work with because i do not know anyone else with this cam onky a 'b' cam and hes runnig 14* advanced idk the mechanical.....any info you can give me i would appreciate much
Start with the initial timing at 12* BTDC. All SBF's no matter the cam seem to like this setting, no matter the cam.
i cant get it close to 12* without it stalling i believe the closest i got it was 15* and it stayed running with the vacum unplugged from the dist
You should never set timing by idle, dont worry about what you have at idle. You always set your timing by full advance, 3500+ rpm. As for the ford alphabet cams, although many guys run them. The ramp speeds they have are very slow compared to the cams you can buy today. They also are all single pattern cams which is very old school. I know many people like them but they are not the most efficent or power producing cam out there.
so what is typical full advance at?? im new to working on cars im a motorcycle mechanic by trade and timing on those 4 stroke motors are completely simplified by timing marks on cams crank and other parts of the motor obviously they dont gpt a dist and you time bikes while off"not running"
Hey Starsky(or anyone else reading this) want a SMOKING good deal on a camshaft? Call up Jon at Delta cams (800)562-5500. He has thousands of profiles to choose from, including the Ford Racing ones. No need to settle on something just cause of the price.
34* is a good place to start. Note when your full advance in coming into effect, it should be in the 3500-3800 range.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with single pattern cams. Dual pattern cams were designed to run with the stock Ford heads, all of which needed more valve timing due to their restrictive exhaust ports. As for them not being the most efficient or peak power producers, that can only be determined by the engine combo they're run with. No two engines are the same. What works for one engine, may or may not work as well with another. I'm running the Z303 in my 331 with 1.7 rockers and could not be happier with the results.
